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  1. #1
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    Exclamation slash drag car build

    Is it smart to put traxxas bandit arms on the slash. I really want it low to the ground as i have a 1/8th scale motor and esc. Here it is https://www.castlecreations.com/en/m...ed-010-0108-04 . I installed the low cg chassis also. I would like your opinion.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    One of the most popular setups for a no-prep drag racers is a buying a Bandit, and swapping the chassis with a Slash LCG chassis.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    If you want to fit most of the no-prep drag bodies out there, yes.

    Post pics when you can!

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier ThatTraxxas's Avatar
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    You should get a proline drag body for a slash.
    One of these:
    https://www.prolineracing.com/short-...s-drag-racing/
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  5. #5
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    I think it is also a good idea to replace the open differential with a spool so that the car tracks straighter off the line.

    Keeping the stock slipper or getting an upgraded slipper would be better for the transmission, but if you are all about acceleration, consider getting a slipper eliminator (or completely tighten the slipper).
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  6. #6
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    It’s best to decide after you get your body. If you can use the slash arms it will be a little more stable do to longer arms. If the body isn’t wide enough to cover the wheels is when you need narrow bandit arms. Many run slash arms up front and bandits in the back. Your wheel offsets will also determine the width you have to work with. Either arms you use won’t effect the ride height .

  7. #7
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    Get a new transmission
    slipper eliminator

  8. #8
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    My 2 centavos. If you go with the proline body you will need the Bandit arms in the rear. I have 5 different bodies and they all need them. What you will also need the Bandit control arms and the axles need to be cut down about 3/8ths of an inch. A little trick I stumbled on is getting a set of TRA4352 1.5 degree stub axle carriers. Install the opposite of what they are stamped, left on the right and right on the left. It will bring your rear toe in almost down to zero.

    I have three drag cars and for some reason each car likes a different set up. You will also find tires are a real trip. I have bought a few sets that this person says are good and another says these are good. I am running Raw Speed soft compound slicks on my cars that work good in my area but maybe not in yours.

    You just need to experiment until it works.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scootern29 View Post
    My 2 centavos. If you go with the proline body you will need the Bandit arms in the rear. I have 5 different bodies and they all need them. What you will also need the Bandit control arms and the axles need to be cut down about 3/8ths of an inch. A little trick I stumbled on is getting a set of TRA4352 1.5 degree stub axle carriers. Install the opposite of what they are stamped, left on the right and right on the left. It will bring your rear toe in almost down to zero.

    I have three drag cars and for some reason each car likes a different set up. You will also find tires are a real trip. I have bought a few sets that this person says are good and another says these are good. I am running Raw Speed soft compound slicks on my cars that work good in my area but maybe not in yours.

    You just need to experiment until it works.
    If you use the bandit drive shafts you won’t have to cut them...you have to shorten the heavy duty (rustler 4x4) axles. I’m sure this is what you meant...just clarified for the op. Surprisingly my bandit drive shafts been holding up...they look so flimsy. I’ll be upgrading myself soon. And your right about tires...seems like every different surface needs a different tire. I been running the Reactions but then only hook well if the surface and tire are hot.

  10. #10
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    I got a Pro mod C7 corvette body and is being painted gun metal grey, I also got some fake carbon fiber from AutoZone for it. I was wondering is there any kind of clear coat or clear paint I can use to protect the stickers? Thanks for the help!

  11. #11
    RC Racer allyeajackvk2's Avatar
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    you should of tried to fit the proline c8 corvette on it
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by allyeajackvk2 View Post
    you should of tried to fit the proline c8 corvette on it
    My local shop only had the C7, I will order a C8 later but I wanted it asap.

  13. #13
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    For gearing I am going to do 50 spur 19 pinion and use 32p gears to help handle all the power. I am gonna use YouMe 2s 6200mah battery for standard racing. Does anyone know of good 4s battery's that are cheap and small enough to fit into a slash? These 4s battery's will be used for just fun. Also Should I get some kind of heat sink for the motor or no?

  14. #14
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    You don’t need 32p gearing for drag racing...48p does just fine and has more options. 32p is beneficial for bashing when there is more drivetrain shock. You also shouldn’t need a fan unless you make 5 or more hits back to back before letting it cool down. Now if you are speed running and running 4s then some fans would be good.
    Last edited by Finz; 03-09-2021 at 09:43 PM.

  15. #15
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    A passive heat sink for the motor is never bad, fan optional

  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Slash drag conversion kit looks interesting:
    http://www.exotekracing.com/tx-vader...-slash-bandit/

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  17. #17
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    I went with 32p because of it is the only ones my local shop had that could fit a 5mm shaft. I would love to get a carbon chassis, But it is not important right now. I got some 70mm yeah racing big bore shocks and there prefect. Oil is 27.5wt and I tightened down the slipper clutch all the way till I get the slipper clutch eliminator. I bought the castle link so I can do the throttle and brake curve stuff. Still not sure how to really do it, but I will figure it out. Its almost done, so excited! I will post pictures when done. This is my first sorta full build. Thank you for all the help.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Sounds good... can’t wait to see the beast you created!

    Have fun!
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by allyeajackvk2 View Post
    you should of tried to fit the proline c8 corvette on it
    That's a 200mm wheelbase body, Drag car bodies are based on 330mm wheelbase.

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  20. #20
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    I have seen it done before though, I bet it requires lots of cutting and fabrication.

  21. #21
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    The body paint dried weird so I am carbon fiber wrapping it.

  22. #22
    RC Racer VisionSlash42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    That's a 200mm wheelbase body, Drag car bodies are based on 330mm wheelbase.

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    If its a 1/10 touring car body, than the 200mm refers to the width, not the wheelbase.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by VisionSlash42 View Post
    If its a 1/10 touring car body, than the 200mm refers to the width, not the wheelbase.
    The specs say 200mm wheelbase and it's a 1/12 scale unless they were thinking of the 1/7 body which I don't think would fit a drag car wheelbase either.

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