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  1. #1
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    I Present My 800Kv Orange Stealth Style X-Maxx!

    Every X-Maxx has a history, and mine took me on a long journey starting with steering servo issues and 2 stock 1200XL motors that just couldn't deliver what I was looking for after adding the Pro-Line MX43 Pro-Loc Badlands.

    I built this X-Maxx with the intentions of cruising and hill climbing alone, because as you will see with the ESC placement, it is not your typical install location. This will not be a basher-style X-Maxx.

    The ESC being more forward was intentional as this will no doubt help keep the front end down during hill climbs and I may actually have to add front bumper weight if I go above punch level 3 on the Max5 ESC.

    I have a wheelie bar but I don't include it in my cosmetic studio photos which are the beauty version only pictures.

    First, the powerhouse under the hood:




    Here are my two retired 1200XL motors:




    SMC's new boxes for their batteries:




    I like their new protective covers on the balance plugs as well:




    I also like how SMC posts their battery information inside the battery box lid:




    I had originally purchased this Castle Pro BEC:




    However, I opted for the Castle 2.0 waterproof king of BEC's in its aluminum case:




    Had to switch all the internals over to the new rear bulkhead unit. This build took over two months because of delivery delays and backorders every step of the way:




    Got the Hot Racing differential covers which is a must have with a 800Kv X-Maxx killer plus the Hot Racing spur gear cover:




    Going for the raw look with the arms:

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  2. #2
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    Continued

    WFO drive cup sleeves all around:





    Got some axle boots that I injected with grease. Here I am doing the outboard boot and the inboard boot gets its grease when assembled to the drive cups:




    Here is the rear modular assembly without the inboard axle boots so the WFO drive cup sleeves are visible. The boots fit over them and I like that the drive cup sleeves actually hold the boot on so I don't have to use the infamous zip-tie method. The outboard boots have a boot sleeve that holds them in place:




    Here are the RPM oversized front axle carriers that compliment my RPM rear oversized axle carriers. Man, five years waiting for RPM to offer those oversized front axle carriers was a long wait and I had mentioned before, I wasn't going to do a build until a few more things were offered for the X-Maxx.





    New drive shafts to match my new drive cups:





    Here is the front modular assembly, and yes the drive cup boots fit over the drive cup sleeves with no problem:




    This is what I'm planning with the BEC placement:





    This is the RX bypass so my BEC can supply 8v to my ProModeler servo. Many thanks to RainDawg! You run the signal and ground to the Rx from the servo and then you run the ground and power wire (red) from the servo to the BEC.

    A bit of splicing is involved on the ground wire and I just soldered the ground wire from the servo to the ground feed coming off the Rx and patched into the BEC ground wire.

    So my Rx is running off my Max5 internal BEC at 6v and my Castle BEC 2.0 is pushing 8v to my ProModeler servo. I may add that Castle Pro Bec I got to power my motor fans at 7.4 volts if it is even necessary; which I don't think it will be personally since the 800Kv motors are known to run cooler.





    This is my clever integration of the BEC leads coming off the EC8 connectors on the skeletal brace since my Castle BEC is epoxy mounted to the chassis. With this design, I do not have to worry about dismounting the BEC every time I have to remove the skeletal brace and I don't have to splice into the ESC leads.

    I never liked the idea of splicing into the ESC leads to get power to the BEC. It looks awful and you will forever have to rely on heat shrink to cover the wound on the leads.

    My plug integration method works better for two reasons. First, there is no splicing involved and secondly, it is completely reversible and I don't have to worry about heat shrink protecting 30v+ connection leads.

    Matter of fact, all my Rx plugs are waterproof and outside the Rx box so I don't have to keep pulling the watertight lid to remove electronics. The only time I will have to get in the Rx box, is when the Rx itself fails or a rebinding procedure is needed. Thanks to ReglarGuy for his quick disconnection idea about the Rx plugs being outside the Rx box.





    EC3 connectors on the BEC leads:

    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-08-2021 at 11:52 PM. Reason: Fixed
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  3. #3
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    Continued

    Final layout:




    This is comparing the two different chassis layouts. I like my new one better! That is the idea right? To make it better, stronger, faster than it was before. Oh wait, that is the Six Million Dollar Man theme LoL!




    Here is my GPM servo mount. It took a bit of grinding to get it to work with the ProModeler servo. I think the GPM servo mounts were intended for plastic case servos because they sure don't fit the ProModeler servos without a fight:




    Servo mounted up and as you can see, I have the two piece center driveshaft conversion kit:




    This is my battery strap mod and it took a whole thirty seconds to make four slots for the battery straps:




    Without the skeletal cage:





    With the skeletal cage:





    Adjustable steering links:





    RPM front bumper mount:





    RPM rear bumper mount:


    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-08-2021 at 11:51 PM. Reason: Fixed something.
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    Continued

    Finished Photos!
















    Carbon fiber wrapped front windshield:




    Carbon fiber wrapped headlights and front windshield:








    Video of up and running electronics:





    Hope this answers some questions to the 800Kv builds!
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  5. #5
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    Love it man. Let us know how you like the motor and setup. I have been toying around with similar electronics and curious about gearing and run times and performance.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by halygon View Post
    Love it man. Let us know how you like the motor and setup. I have been toying around with similar electronics and curious about gearing and run times and performance.

    Thank you!

    I'm still on the fence about running it without the pinion and spur gear cover. It is pretty gravel ridden where I run, and i can't afford to trash an $80 set of gears because a rock binds them up. I looked how the gears rotate when going forward and if the front tire Badlands sling a rock to the rear module, those gears would suck it in fast.

    I have been waiting two months for it going on three this March the 14th.

    The seller posted a web-wide response that he is just one very busy guy and he is doing his best to fulfill the orders. He said he got a large batch done this past weekend and I was hoping my order was in that batch.

    I might have to hit TundraLu up on his 3D printing offer pretty soon if I don't get this darn cover I ordered almost three months ago.

    P.S. - The posted video will play on the Traxxas site now, because I allowed the embedding option. I had it blocked at first and forgot to check that in my editing of the video.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-09-2021 at 01:12 AM. Reason: Fixed video.
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  7. #7
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    Digging the color combo, nice build!

    Sucks about having to wait so long for your cover, though.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  8. #8
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    You did good kid. (lol) I really like your BEC hookup idea. And, one thing I could never figure out about the Six Million Dollar Man...if he's so freaking fast, why does he always run in slow motion?
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  9. #9
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    Nice build, thanks for posting it all.

    Can't wait to hear how it holds up for you.

    I have not looked into the axle boots and sleaves if helpful.

    Also the spur gear hr cover if using 800kv motor if helpful as well. I can see it helping to keep the shaft n gears from moving and stiffening up the bulkhead some.

    I know your not bashing. So adjustable steering links as as well.

    Bet your itching to run it after all that work. And just waiting on that last cover



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  10. #10
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    Very nice build! Thanks very much for sharing this. Keep us posted on what the durability is.

    smp
    Stephen

    Traxxas XMaxx 8S (orange)

  11. #11
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    Glad the wait is almost done! Nice selection of parts.

    I did the same to my Erevo 2.0 drive cup boots. Adding grease has really helped.




    It's a shame that the pictures don't do the orange color justice. The color really is sharp looking in person!

  12. #12
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    Very nice. A lot of thought has obviously gone into parts and functionality, can't wait to hear your reviews on your setup.

    I take it with all the spare parts a second Xmaxx is in the works to limit down time
    The parts waiting game has always been a pain but speaks volumes for the amount of builds going on.

    Grizzly03 is right pictures don't do the color justice in person.

    Thanks for the bec shout-out, koodo's really goes to all those members before me that posted on these forums for their R&D.
    I would wait on the gear cover, more down time replacing gears from potential damage would be hard to take.

    Enjoy your second build while your waiting lol.
    I would be interested in the overall weight when said and done.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Digging the color combo, nice build!

    Sucks about having to wait so long for your cover, though.
    Thank you!

    The gear cover is coming from a person that is not a business, so I knew the wait time was going to be long one. I just didn't think it would turn into a three month wait.

    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    You did good kid. (lol) I really like your BEC hookup idea. And, one thing I could never figure out about the Six Million Dollar Man...if he's so freaking fast, why does he always run in slow motion?
    Thanks!

    The only time it looked like he was running fast was in the shows intro when he is in his red jump suit running 60mph on the treadmill.

    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Nice build, thanks for posting it all.

    Can't wait to hear how it holds up for you.

    I have not looked into the axle boots and sleaves if helpful.

    Also the spur gear hr cover if using 800kv motor if helpful as well. I can see it helping to keep the shaft n gears from moving and stiffening up the bulkhead some.

    I know your not bashing. So adjustable steering links as as well.

    Bet your itching to run it after all that work. And just waiting on that last cover



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Thanks Acidic!

    I'll have follow-ups later when I get everything I need for it to run safely. I'm not sure if you're saying to get adjustable steering links or you are acknowledging that I already have them on the truck. In any case, they are installed and now I have the capability to adjust each front wheel accordingly.

    Quote Originally Posted by spereira View Post
    Very nice build! Thanks very much for sharing this. Keep us posted on what the durability is.

    smp
    Thank you spereira!

    I expect breakage but I'm going to run punch level 1 (lowest) on the Max5 until I get an understanding of just how serious the motor is.

    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Glad the wait is almost done! Nice selection of parts.

    I did the same to my Erevo 2.0 drive cup boots. Adding grease has really helped.




    It's a shame that the pictures don't do the orange color justice. The color really is sharp looking in person!
    After reading how some with 800Kv setups were only getting a month out of their drive cups, I thought the axle boots injected with grease was the way to go. Problem is, I also kept reading reports that the boots do not last one run on the X-Maxx and they are $40 a pop for a set......so of course I bought two sets and will find out how fast I go through them.

    The color of my X-Maxx is best brought out here:






    The problem is, when I posted to the X-Maxx pictures thread (where these two pictures are from), I couldn't remember the monochromatic settings on the phone that brought the true color orange out of the beast.

    In any case, I think these two pictures explain the vivid color best!


    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Very nice. A lot of thought has obviously gone into parts and functionality, can't wait to hear your reviews on your setup.

    I take it with all the spare parts a second Xmaxx is in the works to limit down time
    The parts waiting game has always been a pain but speaks volumes for the amount of builds going on.

    Grizzly03 is right pictures don't do the color justice in person.

    Thanks for the bec shout-out, koodo's really goes to all those members before me that posted on these forums for their R&D.
    I would wait on the gear cover, more down time replacing gears from potential damage would be hard to take.

    Enjoy your second build while your waiting lol.
    I would be interested in the overall weight when said and done.
    Thanks Rain Dawg!

    The color justice is brought out in the X-Maxx pictures thread HERE in post #130.

    I think also, the fluorescent lighting in the basement plays havoc on the picture taking as well and thus the monochromatic settings have to be altered in the phone camera.

    I'll try to get a weight measurement sometime before I get it really dirty.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-09-2021 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Added thanks!
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  14. #14
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    Nice build post a running video sometime

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big androski View Post
    Nice build post a running video sometime
    Thank you!

    That request has some implications that I'm not yet ready to deal with because I have a tendency to nail the throttle hard while filming because people want to see roost and parts breaking when the X-Maxx is hopped up.

    With a total cost approaching three and a half grand since owning this X-Maxx, my throttle finger is under suspension for a little while until I get everything finalized with the build.

    I will try for a running video once I insure my $80 B&M gear set with a protective cover.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    The color of my X-Maxx is best brought out here:
    The problem is, when I posted to the X-Maxx pictures thread (where these two pictures are from), I couldn't remember the monochromatic settings on the phone that brought the true color orange out of the beast.

    In any case, I think these two pictures explain the vivid color best!
    I have that orange on my Jato and it really pops. Pictures don't do it any justice, LoL.
    IMO The Traxxas orange is definitely a nice factory paint job to keep as a show body instead of using.






    What, who, or how did you get the silver finish on the A-arms?
    Last edited by grizzly03; 03-09-2021 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Silver finish

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Finished Photos!
















    Carbon fiber wrapped front windshield:




    Carbon fiber wrapped headlights and front windshield:








    Video of up and running electronics:





    Hope this answers some questions to the 800Kv builds!
    Wowwwwwww, mate, this is a real beast.

  18. #18
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    My response on the adjustable a arms is how well are they for bashing.... Which I know you don't do and no where how I treat mine.

    Your build has given me some things to think about for when I go to a 800kv motor. Once my current stock system dies.


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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    What, who, or how did you get the silver finish on the A-arms?
    I went the cheap way that won't last. Metallic silver Kryon spray paint. It looks good when finished, but it is destroyed on the first run. However, I do like when it starts to speckle and chip off because it looks like real arms when the black starts to poke back through.

    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Wowwwwwww, mate, this is a real beast.
    Thanks Juanmacine; it is now officially worthy of being classified a beast. I'm curious as to the weight now and will find out after a few more add-ons.

    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    My response on the adjustable a arms is how well are they for bashing.... Which I know you don't do and no where how I treat mine.

    Your build has given me some things to think about for when I go to a 800kv motor. Once my current stock system dies.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Oh, you are talking adjustable A-Arms. I thought for sure you were mentioning the adjustable steering toe links that adjust toe-in and toe-out and not camber like the adjustable A-Arms you are referring to.

    From your post #9:

    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    I know your not bashing. So adjustable steering links as as well.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-09-2021 at 07:13 PM.
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  20. #20
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    Flux. We’ve spoken about this build. I know how much you enjoyed building it from the ground up. Your own parts choices for your driving style. It certainly turned out well. Bravo


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Flux. We’ve spoken about this build. I know how much you enjoyed building it from the ground up. Your own parts choices for your driving style. It certainly turned out well. Bravo


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thank You Gripdog!

    I think when someone presents a build, they have to be careful that the readers understand how the vehicle is going to be driven in order for the build to make sense. Any basher of the X-Maxx would look at this build and laugh because the ESC is located in what is considered a dangerous area for the cap packs to be damaged. The front shock tower unit actually rises above the cap packs a considerable amount and would protect them in a relatively moderate rollover.

    I would however strongly advise people that like to jump their X-Maxx 15 feet or higher, to stay away from this type of ESC placement. I know you understand from our prior conversations that I was just making a land cruiser and general hill climbing X-Maxx.

    The spare parts I have left over that are still in excellent condition, got my mouth watering to build a basher style X-Maxx placing the ESC as you did in your build a few years back. Again, this will come down to design patents that expire so other manufacturers can start pushing some serious upgraded products for the truck that are not currently available.

    When you built your X-Maxx, you did an impressive job with what was available at the time, not to mention you had one of the fastest around on the forums. Heck, yours probably is still one of the fastest for the type of build you did.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I went the cheap way that won't last. Metallic silver Kryon spray paint. It looks good when finished, but it is destroyed on the first run. However, I do like when it starts to speckle and chip off because it looks like real arms when the black starts to poke back through.



    Thanks Juanmacine; it is now officially worthy of being classified a beast. I'm curious as to the weight now and will find out after a few more add-ons.



    Oh, you are talking adjustable A-Arms. I thought for sure you were mentioning the adjustable steering toe links that adjust toe-in and toe-out and not camber like the adjustable A-Arms you are referring to.

    From your post #9:
    Adjustable steering links... Blah. No proof read, and or late night.... So adjustable steering links. Over stock and how well they hold up to abuse. Is what I'm getting at..

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Adjustable steering links... Blah. No proof read, and or late night.... So adjustable steering links. Over stock and how well they hold up to abuse. Is what I'm getting at..

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    It's all good Acidic!

    Heck, half the time I don't even know if I'm in the right forum unless I specifically quote someone as a reminder to myself where I'm at!

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  24. #24
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    No updates yet, so I imagine the gear cover is still in limbo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    No updates yet, so I imagine the gear cover is still in limbo.
    I ordered two from someone who has two 3D printers and a 100% rating on eBay. If I get them before the one I ordered on January 15th from another source, I will just get a refund for that one.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    It's all good Acidic!

    Heck, half the time I don't even know if I'm in the right forum unless I specifically quote someone as a reminder to myself where I'm at!

    I purchased a set of adjustable steering links from GPM, but not installed yet.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I ordered two from someone who has two 3D printers and a 100% rating on eBay. If I get them before the one I ordered on January 15th from another source, I will just get a refund for that one.
    It's a race with the waiting game! LoL

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    It's a race with the waiting game! LoL
    Funny you should mention that. As soon as I ordered the other two gear covers, the one I originally ordered shipped out within minutes of me clicking the "Buy Now" button.

    So now, I will have three gear covers at a total of $75 because neither of the two sellers accept returns or offer refunds as far as I know.

    It just occurred to me, that every time I want to add something to the X-Maxx, it is either $50, $75 or an immediate $100 hit to my account.

    What started out as a $25 gear cover turned into a $75 excursion.

    I can't win, even when my intentions are meant for the better good for this truck.
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  29. #29
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    It has been almost two weeks since I last posted about this build.

    I will try to give my best interpretation of what I think about an 800Kv setup running a 1:1 ratio of 33/33 B&M gears with a Max5 and Castle 2.0 waterproof BEC.

    I have finally arrived at a point of elation about owning this truck. It is, and is doing everything that I wanted the stock truck to do out of the box.

    I have to keep reminding myself that Traxxas RTR models are essentially a starting point for inexperienced RC enthusiasts and will never satisfy a seasoned RC enthusiast.

    The power is precise and potent even at punch level 2 on the Max5. I couldn't possibly imagine running this thing on punch level 5. And talk about fast; the darn body shell almost ripped off from the wind sheer and the sides panels of the body were slapping against the chassis like sheets on a clothesline in high winds.

    For the first time, I have seen the Badlands balloon a little bit. That's scary!

    If you have a seasoned throttle finger, the truck will do anything you want at any point in the throttle range. I can lift the front wheels now even if already in forward motion and I can accomplish it at any speed.

    I didn't get the 800Kv motor to see how big of a rut I could leave from a dead stop, I got it to ease into the power-band of an already moving X-Maxx; and man oh man, does the Hobbywing 800Kv motor deliver what I wanted and more!

    My hill climbing and general cruising X-Maxx has rewarded me with all the careful-well-thought-out effort that went into it.

    One drawback of the Hobbywing 800Kv motor is its braking power. I initially started out at 50% and then tried 85.5% and then had to go to 100% to get the results I wanted.

    Since hill climbing is my X-Maxx's forte and what it was generally built for, trying to slow that monster down when it is coming down a hill, is probably the reason my braking power had to be set so high.

    I initially was worried that if the braking power were set too high, it would front flip coming down hills when the brakes were applied.

    I'm also wondering if the punch level would have something to do with the braking power. Honestly, I don't care because it stops (I could actually lock up the tires) on punch level 2 at 100% braking. At punch level 1, I virtually had no brakes or I should say it would take forever to stop at 50%, 85.5% or 100% braking power and not be able to lock up the tires.

    I still haven't weighed the monster yet, but I'm guessing the brake percentage having to be set so high, must be the result of its momentum of added weight and power.

    I think the 800Kv motor could power a 50 pound rig with no problems and if you aren't experienced with how to feather your throttle just right, you might want to stay at punch level 1 until you get the hang of what the motor is capable of.

    For the first time I am able to actually swing my rear end around in power slides at the precise moment I want and the hookup with the Badlands exiting a corner is phenomenal.

    The build has surprised me in several ways that I wasn't expecting and the front roll center is something I'll have to adjust out of the stock position. The ESC being more forward has tamed the front end down as expected because I was aware of what the 800Kv motors could do.

    The ESC being more forward has helped incredibly with the hill climbing; but since it sits higher, I'll have to move my front roll axis out of the stock position to give the front end more resistance in cornering because as of now, it wants to tip going into corners on high grip surfaces.

    That is all I can think of at this point, and I'm still trying to find someone that can film my truck in action so you all can see why I built it the way I did.

    Oh, and the ProModeler at 8v from my Castle 2.0 BEC is a night and day difference compared to running it at 6v. I never knew that running the servos at a higher voltage could be so addictive; but at a cost of losing a little run time, the trade-off is worth it.

    One more thing, the durability factor so far has proven to be worth the upgraded parts in this build. I figure after almost two weeks of running without a breakdown is a very good start; plus as I mentioned, I have a very steady throttle finger.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-26-2021 at 01:11 AM. Reason: Spelling correction.
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  30. #30
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    Sounds like it's a lot of fun. Glad the build didn't disappoint! Can't wait to see some action shots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Sounds like it's a lot of fun. Glad the build didn't disappoint! Can't wait to see some action shots.
    For the first time, I'm in control of how the truck handles instead of the truck under-responding because of a weak stock servo and way under powered stock motor. Some may think that is harsh, but consider this for a moment; I have a Castle 2200Kv 1515 1-Y motor that is every bit more powerful than the 1200XL (1275Kv) stock X-Maxx motor and it is going on five years old in my E-Maxx Brushless.

    I haven't even unlocked the full potential of that Castle 1515 1-Y motor either, so I know for a fact that it can smack around a 1200XL stock motor with no problems.

    Someone that hasn't driven the new era RC's would think that the X-Maxx is powerful with its stock motor and I understand and respect that. But if they knew what this truck is really capable of once you establish a strong servo and better than sub-par motor, they would never go back to a stock motor.

    Even with the stock X-Maxx tires when I first got my X-Maxx with the stock motor, it felt like it was governed down and wouldn't go anywhere without really punching it. Even then, it felt like a dead elephant was riding on it and the handling was so sloppy that I've had real cars with a broken tie rod handle better than it did.

    When stock, it would just spool up and make a lot of noise and not really get into the meat of the powerband of the motor to result in any type of speed or power. Trust me, I know this because I bought a brand new 1200XL motor to see if it made a difference and it didn't.

    Remember when I was doing my motor pinion pin capture method?

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...or-pinion-idea

    That was when I realized it wasn't me or the setup of the truck that was to blame for its under-performing characteristics, that is the way it was designed: "RTR" but not to impress.

    Now if I were sixteen-years-old when the X-Maxx came out and I had never owned a new era RC before, I would think the truck was the best thing that was ever made because I wouldn't know any better and just be satisfied with how it performed.

    Moving forward, I'm going to start looking more for kits to build from the ground up because frankly I'm tired and worn out buying over-priced chassis just to have to put the same amount of money into the truck or car as its list price just to make it drivable.

    Let's look closely at what I typed there: "to make it drivable" - I didn't say reliable, I said very clearly: "to make it drivable." Now if I had to spend the kind of money I did just to make it more reliable as I did to make it drivable, that would be a different story. But the mistakes in performance that I was correcting, were mistakes that tend to make me wonder why these vehicles are being manufactured as disposable items at their price point.

    But since that is a debatable bullet point, I will just be happy that I put my money where my mouth is before I said something.
    Sent from my autonomous device.

  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    The original Brushless Emaxx is the only Traxxas truck I ever had that I didn't have to change the ESC and motor to get what I wanted out of it, and that was due to it being a Castle system. I've never been impressed with the Traxxas brand ESC's and motors. (IMO) I think Traxxas uses their own brand, because it's a cheaper way to make their RC's RTR than if they were to use Castle or Leopard power. Traxxas does make a pretty good chassis for the money, though. Plus, they are the best for parts availability and customer support.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    The original Brushless Emaxx is the only Traxxas truck I ever had that I didn't have to change the ESC and motor to get what I wanted out of it, and that was due to it being a Castle system.
    There is that, and how can a guy pass up a monster truck that had eight shocks?

    By the time I got around to building an E-Maxx Brushless, Traxxas was on the move to discontinue making them; yet alone the Castle system was long gone by the last version of the E-Maxx Brushless.


    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy
    I've never been impressed with the Traxxas brand ESC's and motors. (IMO) I think Traxxas uses their own brand, because it's a cheaper way to make their RC's RTR than if they were to use Castle or Leopard power.
    The only model I have been impressed with by Traxxas as far as their ESC's and motors is the 1/16 scale E-Revo VXL. It took many underwater excursions to kill that ESC and motor and it was my go to vehicle when it was raining so hard that you could barely see it when driving it.

    Plus it was just easier to clean and maintain than most of my other Traxxas fleet. Most people shy away from the 1/16 models because they don't want to have to do bearing maintenance on bearings that small and get frustrated because it takes skilled patience to work with parts that small.

    Myself, I have no problems with it because I have a unique astigmatism that allows me to see up close and far away at the same time because of the amount of light that can enter my eyes from the differences in pupil diameter of each eye.

    I can actually read the microprint on checks where you sign them and most people think that is a solid line they are signing on, but in reality it has the words on some checks "Authorized Signature" repetitively written without spaces to make that line.

    To further put it into perspective about how unique the astigmatism is, I actually disassembled a Swiss watch and put it back together without a scope glass that fine jewelers use to set diamonds and repair watches. Some of the pieces are so small in a Swiss watch that they can be damaged just from handling them.

    So working on a 1/16 scale RC is like working on an E-Maxx Brushless to me. If you ever worked on a Blade 230S Helicopter, you'll know just how frustrating it can be to handle screws that small.


    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy
    Traxxas does make a pretty good chassis for the money, though. Plus, they are the best for parts availability and customer support.
    Parts availability has suffered because of the guys that go on self endeavors with the 3D printing. The guy that makes the two piece center driveshaft kit for the X-Maxx told me that he bought out every available seller of the center skid plates and center driveshafts just to make his kits available again.

    So if anyone was having trouble finding a center shaft or center skid plate for the X-Maxx, be advised the guy selling the kits was the cause for the shortage. .
    Sent from my autonomous device.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I can actually read the microprint on checks where you sign them and most people think that is a solid line they are signing on, but in reality it has the words on some checks "Authorized Signature" repetitively written without spaces to make that line.
    That's so funny you mentioned this. I can read that line and see really tiny stuff too. Family and friends didn't believe me until a magnifying glass came out trying to prove me wrong. Guess I got the last laugh, LoL!

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    That's so funny you mentioned this. I can read that line and see really tiny stuff too. Family and friends didn't believe me until a magnifying glass came out trying to prove me wrong. Guess I got the last laugh, LoL!
    What my eyes can do, is what's known as sign/cosign or increasing/decreasing the focal power of a lens. There was this guy in the service that use to wear his glasses at an inclined angle on his face and everyone use to ask why. The reason was because his lenses were out of prescription by about five years and when he would tilt the glasses to a certain angle on his face, he was increasing the focal power of the lens, thus returning the prescription strength to his lenses he originally started out with.

    Uncle Sam could have bought him new glasses at any time but he insisted on wearing the ones he had because the style was cosmetic and Uncle Sam don't pay for nothing but the bare minimal.

    Technically, I'm blind. Since my eyes focus at different focal powers my mind doesn't process an image clearly and hence I get by with contacts where one is tinted and one is a 304 focal point lens. I cannot read the micro-print with my contacts in; however, when I take them out, my right eye can read micro-print and my left eye is my eagle eye to see things far away.

    With practice over the years from focusing on stereogram pictures, I have trained my eyes and mind to not work against each other and can leave both open when focusing on micro-print or looking at something far away now; though I will always be what they consider legally blind. I never knew it was possible to have better than 20/20 vision in each eye; yet be legally blind because the eyes don't work in tandem because of the unique astigmatism I mentioned. That is why one of my contacts is heavily tinted, because it has to reduce the amount of light entering my eye and change how it is refracted onto the retina.

    The best way I can describe it, is when looking through a pair of binoculars oriented the correct way without my contacts in, my eyes are fooled into believing that I am looking through the binoculars with my contacts in and everything is blurry. If I turn the binoculars around to where I'm looking through the large lenses first, everything looks normal because of the unique astigmatism I mentioned, but still everything is far away and small but not as blurry.

    The really expensive binoculars have the special focal rings to adjust distorted images for astigmatisms like mine.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 03-28-2021 at 09:06 PM.
    Sent from my autonomous device.

  36. #36
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    Your Xmaxx sounds fun. Glad to hear everything is coming together. Your in the same boat as me trying to find someone to video (different subject), Covid is not making things easy.

  37. #37
    RC Racer
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    Looks good. That’s odd with your brake setting. I don’t remember mine being that way. I think you should try 25/35 gearing. That is closer to stock still faster but more controllable.
    Honest thoughts on a hear cover. Is that you don’t need it. The gears are not affected by anything I’ve subjected mine too.

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