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  1. #1
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    Got a new toy today!

    Yea, I know.. I'm a little late to the Crawler party..lol
    Now I have a new sub-forum to lurk in..

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  2. #2
    RC Racer
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    Welcome.
    Nice toys!
    'If it's free, I'm buying two!'

  3. #3
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Congrats and have fun!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Congrats... I’m a little bit jelly now!

    Have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  5. #5
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    Rock and Roll !!!

    I hope You will have more Rocks - than Rolls ....


  6. #6
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    Thanks gents! Lol

    Had some G-500 rims and tires collecting dust that I didn't use for another build..

    Let the mods begin! [emoji13]



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  7. #7
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    Ok, they are back on the shelf collecting dust..found another old set with trenchers on them and these are my style..
    Love the look and them being oversized!



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  8. #8
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    Are these Trenchers any good for rock crawling? I had my eyes on them for a rig that requires wider tires than normal. These or the Sledgehammers.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Congrats!!!

    No better truck to start with. Those Trenchers are going to play heck with your stock servo, and will likely fry it. Also, the stock servo horns are not that great, and those Trenchers will certainly kill it. No matter what, recommend aluminum servo horn, and if you keep those tires, upgrading the servo and BEC.

    Quote Originally Posted by xagoras View Post
    Are these Trenchers any good for rock crawling? I had my eyes on them for a rig that requires wider tires than normal. These or the Sledgehammers.
    Depends, they are made for speed, so they are a bit hard for crawling, and likely will not grip well. But, for trail running, and just about any terrain that is soft, they'll do ok.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  10. #10
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    It's all new to me..lol

    I just came back from trying them out and they were biting on everything they could get in touch with [emoji15]

    I've rolled this thing more today than any other rig I own. Haha

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Congrats!!!

    No better truck to start with. Those Trenchers are going to play heck with your stock servo, and will likely fry it. Also, the stock servo horns are not that great, and those Trenchers will certainly kill it. No matter what, recommend aluminum servo horn, and if you keep those tires, upgrading the servo and BEC.



    Depends, they are made for speed, so they are a bit hard for crawling, and likely will not grip well. But, for trail running, and just about any terrain that is soft, they'll do ok.
    Yea, I had already heard the stock servo was a weak link..so knew that going into the purchase..but at the price point Traxxas has this at for what you get out of the box it's actually a pretty decent deal..

    I'm used to buying servo's because me and small tires get along like oil and water..lol

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    Last edited by radio uncontrol; 03-21-2021 at 05:56 PM.

  12. #12
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    The 2075X on this rig already has an aluminum servo horn [emoji106]
    That was out of the box..I did not install that



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    Last edited by radio uncontrol; 03-21-2021 at 06:32 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by xagoras View Post
    Are these Trenchers any good for rock crawling? I had my eyes on them for a rig that requires wider tires than normal. These or the Sledgehammers.
    Having both sets in hand right now I can tell you the Trenchers are way softer than the Sledgehammers... the Sledgehammers outside diameter is a bit larger than the Trenchers so I can see them being a rub issue on chassis parts that can't be trimmed (i.e. link arms to front axle).
    Raised the body post 2 positions so I have zero rub with tires and body..The Trenchers rub the link arms in extremely tight full lock turns..could probably eliminate that with steering setpoints.
    The Trenchers tackled the same terrains that the stock Canyons did earlier in the day..so for me as of now the Trenchers will stay

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  14. #14
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    Hello Greatscott.....just created account and this is first post here.....Just got my first crawler (first 4 rigs are bashers)....TRX-4 Defender..... got some brass for it. Have a Savox 1230sg coming and a metal horn waiting for the new Servo. Installed the Traxxas BEC, was debating on the Hobbywing 1080..... decided to plug and play till I get deeper into this.

    Just thought I'd tell you I have read MANY of your posts.... they have helped me a LOT in the decisions I have made with the crawler...... THANK YOU FOR SHARING WHAT YOU KNOW

    love the Defender body..... wish the RC4WD Toyota Tacoma was 324mm.....

  15. #15
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    Crazy Winnebago style body....

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon NC RC View Post
    Hello Greatscott.....just created account and this is first post here.....Just got my first crawler (first 4 rigs are bashers)....TRX-4 Defender..... got some brass for it. Have a Savox 1230sg coming and a metal horn waiting for the new Servo. Installed the Traxxas BEC, was debating on the Hobbywing 1080..... decided to plug and play till I get deeper into this.

    Just thought I'd tell you I have read MANY of your posts.... they have helped me a LOT in the decisions I have made with the crawler...... THANK YOU FOR SHARING WHAT YOU KNOW

    love the Defender body..... wish the RC4WD Toyota Tacoma was 324mm.....
    Hi mate. There is a ''long to short'' wheelbase kit from Traxxas that turns it into 312mm if you want to mount other bodies.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by xagoras View Post
    Hi mate. There is a ''long to short'' wheelbase kit from Traxxas that turns it into 312mm if you want to mount other bodies.
    Thank you sir.......I will need to decide which Body I want more.... the Defender or the Tacoma......I assume the Defender would no longer work on a shortened wheelbase....

    Maybe....buy a Sport Kit and get the Tacoma body......for my wife.....

  18. #18
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    It's not that hard to switch between wheelbase dimensions. It just takes time, so it's not something that is done ''on the fly''. You basically need to take the whole rear axle off the car. Re-position the shocks, install the shorter half-shafts and shorter links and you are good to go.

    If you get the hang of it, it takes around 30 minutes or even less.

    Of course if the wife () wants a second truck, you shouldn't say no to her

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by xagoras View Post
    It's not that hard to switch between wheelbase dimensions. It just takes time, so it's not something that is done ''on the fly''. You basically need to take the whole rear axle off the car. Re-position the shocks, install the shorter half-shafts and shorter links and you are good to go.

    If you get the hang of it, it takes around 30 minutes or even less.

    Of course if the wife () wants a second truck, you shouldn't say no to her
    She likes the bashers we got.... this is the first crawler in our fleet...... not sure how she feels about the slow goin stuff.....

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon NC RC View Post
    She likes the bashers we got.... this is the first crawler in our fleet...... not sure how she feels about the slow goin stuff.....
    We're still talking about the trucks, right?
    I was going to suggest Barry White for the slow going stuff [emoji16]

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by radio uncontrol View Post
    I was going to suggest Barry White for the slow going stuff [emoji16]

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
    Dude, ROFLMBO! [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji3517][emoji3517][emoji3517]

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  22. #22
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    Well my son saw the crawler in action and wants to give his Teton a rest and try his hand at the TRX Sport..so it became groundhog day here.. lol

    Good to have for comparison as raised body tower brackets and I flipped the front and rear bumper brackets on my truck and gained 1.5" rear approach/descent angle and gained 1" approach/descent angle in the front. Same C/G and pumpkin clearance as only the body was raised.

    Servo will definitely get an upgrade..already stalled out doing some maneuvers..
    Got 2 kits shown in pic 3 ordered..so we'll see how it goes!

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by radio uncontrol View Post
    We're still talking about the trucks, right?
    I was going to suggest Barry White for the slow going stuff [emoji16]

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
    Walked right into that one

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon NC RC View Post
    Walked right into that one
    Jus' messin' with ya Jon. [emoji16]

    This is fast becoming one of my favorite rigs..most all my other rigs are speedsters of 4S and above

    So speedsters and crawlers get along in the RC world?
    Unlike power boaters and sail boaters or 2 plankers vs. knuckle draggers.. Ha!

    Below is about my max angle without scraping anything since bumper brace flip and, body adjustment and rock sliders raised

    ..and I didn't lose any articulation on the first TRX4 with the big tires..

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  25. #25
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    Traxxas Servo and BEC arrived..
    Got it installed and it is super quiet..I have a MKS that is very noisy..works good but noisy.

    While I had it all tore down I did some faux body work and now it has doors in the last pic [emoji16][emoji16]

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  26. #26
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    Do you have any clearance issues with those tires?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by xagoras View Post
    Do you have any clearance issues with those tires?
    I did when the body was in stock configuration..since then I have raised the adjustable body mounts 2 holes, flipped the front and rear bumper brackets on the metal frame and raised the rock sliders with shock spacers to the same level of extra height that the bumper brackets flip gained me..

    The pics below show a full steering lock left and right and it is really close to shocks and suspension link but it clears..only issue is if I'm at full lock and an extreme dip the edge of the tire will rub that suspension link..raising the body and bumpers basically eliminated any other clearance concerns.

    Did a small trim on the plastic directly behind front tires

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  28. #28
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    I have set of these coming to see if I can gain some room between the inside tire edge and these suspension links..
    It's trial and error..I need to have them in hand to see if the offset is beneficial or not.



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  29. #29
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    From what I saw in the pictures, You may try to offset the wheels with some offset adaptor - perhaps 2mm or 4mm additionnal offset would do - and gives you the clearance needed

    Personally, I would take that route

  30. #30
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    get extended wheel hexes it will make it more stable and give more tire clearance. it gives enough tire stick out that you can self right a lot of times

  31. #31
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    Good suggestions and input but it certainly isn't going to be used as a 'technical' crawling rig so for the few situations that does cause a rub on the link arm it isn't a huge deal...if the rod ends attached horizontal instead of vertical on the axle I would just get some offset rod ends and be done with it or the same size tire with a different backspacing would also do the trick.
    Already had the wheels and tires in the parts bin so I threw them on there being good enough for a trail rig...I only need the 2 longest links in that set, if they work that would be great and if they don't I won't be broken hearted...lol

    I just know I'm not giving up my big wheels!! [emoji16]

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  32. #32
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    You could of course just slightly bend the rods that you already have.

    I did this to our G500, the lift kit had given a little too much toe out on the fronts plus the suspension travel was limited by contact with a few things such as the servo horn.
    I moved the servo so it was higher up and put a slight bend in each end of the steering tie rod, also relocated the panard rod at one end.
    The overall end result was 10mm more front compression clearance.
    'If it's free, I'm buying two!'

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by radio uncontrol View Post
    I did when the body was in stock configuration..since then I have raised the adjustable body mounts 2 holes, flipped the front and rear bumper brackets on the metal frame and raised the rock sliders with shock spacers to the same level of extra height that the bumper brackets flip gained me..

    The pics below show a full steering lock left and right and it is really close to shocks and suspension link but it clears..only issue is if I'm at full lock and an extreme dip the edge of the tire will rub that suspension link..raising the body and bumpers basically eliminated any other clearance concerns.

    Did a small trim on the plastic directly behind front tires

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
    It might just be the camera angle but is that servo wire close to the motor? It could melt.
    Usually there is a clip on the rear of the servo mount which holds the wire away from the motor.
    'If it's free, I'm buying two!'

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyUK View Post
    It might just be the camera angle but is that servo wire close to the motor? It could melt.
    Usually there is a clip on the rear of the servo mount which holds the wire away from the motor.
    That was a good catch..thank you.
    Got so concerned making sure not to pinch ESC/BEC wire going under battery tray I missed that one when tidying up [emoji106]

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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyUK View Post
    You could of course just slightly bend the rods that you already have.

    I did this to our G500, the lift kit had given a little too much toe out on the fronts plus the suspension travel was limited by contact with a few things such as the servo horn.
    I moved the servo so it was higher up and put a slight bend in each end of the steering tie rod, also relocated the panard rod at one end.
    The overall end result was 10mm more front compression clearance.
    Believe me I have thought about it lol!
    But I would rather 'practice' that on a spare rod than screw these two up and truck is out of commission..haha

    What I find odd is the top of the front diff takes hit from the one cross bar when the shocks bottom out..must be in the design because both trucks do it right out of the box.
    Just caught that today as I'm changing the red diff covers to the gray ones

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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by radio uncontrol View Post
    That was a good catch..thank you.
    Got so concerned making sure not to pinch ESC/BEC wire going under battery tray I missed that one when tidying up [emoji106]

    Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
    I'm with you on that, terrible pinch point for 3 sets of wires.
    Next time mines apart for cleaning I might see if I can reroute those wires over the top instead.
    'If it's free, I'm buying two!'

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyUK View Post
    It might just be the camera angle but is that servo wire close to the motor? It could melt.
    Usually there is a clip on the rear of the servo mount which holds the wire away from the motor.
    that titian motor would die long before it would get hot enough to melt the wires

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyUK View Post
    You could of course just slightly bend the rods that you already have.
    Well, after a trip to acquire some TRA8243 link rods I did managed to get the few mm needed to allow the big wheels to stay!

    OH HAPPY DAY! [emoji16]

    I did snap the threaded end off of my 'tester' rod but it was bought as disposable for just such a mishap..
    All is well and rig is back together with offset links




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  39. #39
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    Looks like it should be sorted then.
    If needed, you can also set the servo endpoints to give an extra mm clearance on full lock.
    'If it's free, I'm buying two!'

  40. #40
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    Yea, figured I'd give the steels ones a try at bending.. wasn't sure if the aluminum ones I ordered would bend easier or snap quicker or both. Lol

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