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Thread: Nitro questions

  1. #1

    Question Nitro questions

    Hello everyone.

    I have been on and off wanting to get into nitro for the past 3-3.5 years, and now might finally have the opportunity to try it out. I am planning on getting the T-Maxx Classic. Would it be a good first nitro truck? What do I need to get into nitro that does not already come with the truck? Should I use traxxas fuel? If so, should I use the 20% or the 33% nitro? What is a good break-in procedure for the engine? What after-run maintenance needs to be done?

    Sorry about how many questions this post has. I am a nitro newb.
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  2. #2
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    There are fewer fuels out there now. My LHS used to carry Byrons and O'Donnell - which were fantastic - but the shop's selection is very limited now...probably Traxxas and Blue Thunder. The higher percentage you go the smaller the tuning window. 20% is pretty common.

    Nitro tuning is a steep learning curve and you'll get frustrated with it. You will see why most don't want to mess with it and be part of the plug-n-play crowd. Read the manual that will come with the truck regarding break-in, tuning and after-run. Read Nitronaught's write-up in the engine subforum. Watch videos on how to tune. But once you get the hang of it, very little sounds or feels better than a nitro engine singing.
    The Super Derecho

  3. #3
    Thanks Double G! One more question: Do you tune the engine during break-in, or after break in?
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Hello everyone.

    I have been on and off wanting to get into nitro for the past 3-3.5 years, and now might finally have the opportunity to try it out. I am planning on getting the T-Maxx Classic. Would it be a good first nitro truck? What do I need to get into nitro that does not already come with the truck? Should I use traxxas fuel? If so, should I use the 20% or the 33% nitro? What is a good break-in procedure for the engine? What after-run maintenance needs to be done?

    Sorry about how many questions this post has. I am a nitro newb.
    Donít be sorry, we all got to start out somewhereÖ LOL.

    But just like what double G said, they can be finicky, getting them tuned right is not necessarily an easy task because it all depends on humidity and temperature to get them set just right but one thing about it, thereís just nothing like that little car that runs off of a tiny little internal combustion engine that sure does attract crowd of people asking questions about it.

    Iíve got the Revo 3.3 that Iíve had for over the last 10 years which is kind of pretty much the same as the Tmax except the suspensionís not the same but Iíve had a blast having that little truck.

    My new electric Maxx is just so much easier to use and play with but thereís just a special part for that nitro on my truck.

    The owners manual that should come with that Tmax will tell you everything you need to know that is actually a pretty good source for information. As far as the break-in procedure, I would just follow what Traxxas has outlined in their manual but the one thing that I would do thatís added is that after you get done running through the first tank before you proceed to the next one, I would go the extra step and as soon as the motor shuts off after running out of fuel, be sure to pick one end of the car up and use your finger to spin the fly wheel and turn that crank to where you put the piston all the way down on bottom dead center because as the motor cools, you donít want the top of that piston to get squeezed from the cylinder head when the motor cools and contracts which is actually still a good practice to make habit of even after you get it broke in where every time when youíre done running it. Just spin that fly wheel with your finger because wherever the piston is, itíll either be really easy to turn or really hard to turn so just keep trying to turn it wherever itís at so that when all the sudden it gets really easy to turn thatís how you know that the piston all the way down because itís hardly making any contact with the cylinder at all.

    As far as fuel, you can run whatever you want, Iíve always just ran the 20% in mine and still get good power but if you want more power, then you would use the 33% which has less oil which means not quite as much lubrication for your engine which really, the 33% is more for the guys who race these things and for everything else, 40% of all you really need.

    As far as after-run maintenance, just get you some after run oil from Traxxas and whenever youíre done playing with it for longer than the rest of the day or overnight, youíll want to drain the tank, unplug your glow plug wire and use your easy starter to empty the lines to make sure youíve blown out whatever residual leftover fuel is in there and then pull the glow plug out of the top of head and put about four or five drops of that oil directly down in the hole where the glow plug was, use your finger to turn the piston up and down about 4, 5 times stopping with it on bottom dead center, reinstall the glow plug, charge the receiver battery, and thatís it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Thanks Double G! One more question: Do you tune the engine during break-in, or after break in?
    I know this question was directed at G and Iím not trying to steal his answer but no, according to Traxxas if I remember correctly, you leave the high-speed set to where it was set at from the factory for break-in purposes. The only time you concentrate on to the tune is once you get the motor broke in.

    But one thing I will say though, when I put my new motor in from OS, they had me lean the high-speed needle in 1/4 of a turn after every one of the break-in tanks that I went through. Now why Traxxas, if I remember correctly, has you leave the high-speed needle alone when youíre tuning it, I donít know but I guess itís really up to you on how you do it because from what I know and from what Iíve seen, the differences between the OS motor and the Traxxas motor is really not all that much different at all.


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  6. #6
    Thanks corneileous! So just follow Traxxas' instructions and it should be a smooth process? I just really wouldn't want to fry my motor.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Thanks corneileous! So just follow Traxxas' instructions and it should be a smooth process? I just really wouldn't want to fry my motor.
    Yeah, I think thatís what I would do if it was me but I would also add in those other steps I mentioned instead of just knocking those tanks out right after another like the manual will tell you to do, and let the motor cool for about 10 minutes between tanks after youíve immediately spun the flywheel so that the piston is at bottom dead center.

    As far as the part about leaning the high speed needle in a quarter turn between each tanks, I donít know if I would necessarily do that part only because thatís not in the manual so that would really up to you as well but all I can say is, when I first got my Revo 3.3, I followed everything that the manual said to do and my motor was just fine. But then again, I canít really speak if it actually was because even though Iíve had my little Revo for over 10 years, I really didnít run it all that much because up until last year, this car has spent a lot of time in storage and I think Iíve only ran maybe 2 and a half gallons of fuel through it since Iíve had it and the only reason why I had to put a new motor in it recently was because the original motor lost compression which was probably primarily due to the fact that I really wasnít all that responsible on my after run procedure and every time I shut the motor off, I never bothered to make sure the piston was on bottom dead center so even though it was that old, it really hasnít been ran all that much so if I had ran it a lot more than I had, I probably wouldíve been either replacing or rebuilding my motor a long time ago but then again, I really think that what did my motor in was because I got it too hot one day after running it auto really warm day and I had a set of overly large tires on it and never changed the gearing between the clutch bell or the spur gear at all so who knows, thatís probably why it got too hot because I think what happened was I overheated the piston Add made it pretty much to where once it was warmed up, I had no compression at all because once it warmed up, it would stall really easy and then it acted like it didnít have any fuel because it was almost impossible to start unless I let the motor cool off but yeah, I donít know, youíre probably gonna be just perfectly fine to just follow the directions in your manual.


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    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    But one thing I will say though, when I put my new motor in from OS, they had me lean the high-speed needle in 1/4 of a turn after every one of the break-in tanks that I went through.
    That's quite a lot of leaning of the HSN for any engine. That would be a quick way to ruin an engine.
    That's definitely NOT recommended. OS states to turn 30į after each tank. That would mean three times would equal that 1/4 turn.

    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    As far as the part about leaning the high speed needle in a quarter turn between each tanks, I donít know if I would necessarily do that part only because thatís not in the manual...
    I wouldn't turn the HSN needle in 1/4 turns even when tuning. The only time you should turn 1/4 turn is when the engine is lean and that would be 1/4 turn out or richer, then re-tune. When the engine goes lean is when damage occurs. After break-in on a Traxxas engine tune the engine by turning the HSN in 1/16 increments, or no more than 1/8 of a turn.

    Read the Traxxas tuning/break-in card for help:https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...ningcard_0.pdf

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    Nitro questions

    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    That's quite a lot of leaning of the HSN for any engine. That would be a quick way to ruin an engine.
    That's definitely NOT recommended. OS states to turn 30į after each tank. That would mean three times would equal that 1/4 turn.

    I wouldn't turn the HSN needle in 1/4 turns even when tuning. The only time you should turn 1/4 turn is when the engine is lean and that would be 1/4 turn out or richer, then re-tune. When the engine goes lean is when damage occurs. After break-in on a Traxxas engine tune the engine by turning the HSN in 1/16 increments, or no more than 1/8 of a turn.

    Read the Traxxas tuning/break-in card for help:https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...ningcard_0.pdf
    You kind of had me worried there for a second but now that you said that, I donít think I was actually turning or leaning the high speed needle after each tank a whole quarter of a turn.... as a matter fact I think I was only turning it just a tiny bit to where at the end of the five tank break in, the needle probably did wind up being turned in from the stock setting by a full quarter turn.

    But Iím just curiousÖ Even though I am really positive that after running the five break-in tanks through it, it only wound up being a full quarter turn when I was done so why would OS tell me to even do that with the high speed needle if some would say thatís not recommended at all while youíre breaking it in?

    Why doesnít Traxxas say to very slightly lean the high speed needle out after every tank?


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    Last edited by corneileous; 04-02-2021 at 12:59 PM.

  10. #10
    Alright, sounds good. I will make sure that I follow the couple of tips you gave me. Also, does the T-Maxx come with a NiMh pack or the double A's? If it comes with the double A's, should I get a different battery pack from the get go? I have heard of the double A system being untrustworthy and that sometimes the truck can run away because of the batteries being low or if they fall out.
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  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Yeah, I think that’s what I would do if it was me but I would also add in those other steps I mentioned instead of just knocking those tanks out right after another like the manual will tell you to do, and let the motor cool for about 10 minutes between tanks after you’ve immediately spun the flywheel so that the piston is at bottom dead center.
    It only says to let it cool 15 minutes on the first 2 tanks on the break-in card. Also, how do you stop the transmission from shifting during break-in, because it says on the 4th tank that you need to do this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Alright, sounds good. I will make sure that I follow the couple of tips you gave me. Also, does the T-Maxx come with a NiMh pack or the double A's? If it comes with the double A's, should I get a different battery pack from the get go? I have heard of the double A system being untrustworthy and that sometimes the truck can run away because of the batteries being low or if they fall out.
    If you buy the truck brand new, it should already come with the updated radio receiver that has a failsafe built-in to it so that if anything ever happens, itíll just let go of the throttle and hopefully if whenever something does happen you wonít have it at full throttle and that thereís nothing in front of it as it idles to a stop.

    Regarding the battery, you may have to go on the Traxxas website to verify but it should come with the same five cell 6V NiMH battery that my revo came with. May not be the same shape but pretty much the same battery. Iíve never heard of a little AA battery clam shell accessory.

    But since youíre asking about batteries, you might want to look into an aftermarket charger kinda like this one or equivalent .....

    https://www.hobbytown.com/thunder-po...610hvc/p632945

    ....because the one that itíll come with will cause you to have to buy Traxxasís expensive AC/DC converter unless you are just ok with charging your batteries from the cigarette lighter or power port in your car, or unless if you already perhaps have an AC to DC converter with a cigarette lighter plug on it.

    Oh, and if you decide not to get that particular charger that I put the link up to, you must make sure that the charger you get will charge a five cell battery because you donít wanna do like what I did by mistake and bought a similar type charger as that one that only charges 6-cell and up NiMH and NiCad batteries. Also, itíll probably work with a lot more chargers than that one but when you click on that web link, there will be an option to select that squid wiring adapter that will adapt the charger to almost every type of battery connector out there or, you could just do like what I did and buy just the adapter for the 7.2 V battery for your easy start, and the separate adapter that will plug into the truck to charge your receiver battery.


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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    It only says to let it cool 15 minutes on the first 2 tanks on the break-in card. Also, how do you stop the transmission from shifting during break-in, because it says on the 4th tank that you need to do this.
    I would follow the Traxxas instructions pretty closely but really the one thing that I would do extra is each time the motor shuts off after each tank, is to spin that fly wheel so that your piston is not all the way up to top dead center as the motor cools off because what happens, as the motor warms up, the metal on the piston and the metal on the sleeve will actually shrink when they get warm and they will contract as they cool off so you can only imagine the amount of pressure thatíll be applied to the very top edge of your piston which can actually crush it just a little bit which will affect your motorís compression because since these little motors donít have piston rings like a car motor does, these little nitro motors actually rely on a very tight conical fit between the top of the cylinder sleeve and the top of the smooth-walled piston. Thatís how they make their compression which is what makes your power.

    As far as keeping the transmission from shifting while you are breaking in your motor, it shouldnít be shifting into second if youíre keeping your speed and your acceleration slow because if it actually shifts into second gear, youíre actually driving it too fast and holding the throttle open too long.


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  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    If you buy the truck brand new, it should already come with the updated radio receiver that has a failsafe built-in to it so that if anything ever happens, it’ll just let go of the throttle and hopefully if whenever something does happen you won’t have it at full throttle and that there’s nothing in front of it as it idles to a stop.

    Regarding the battery, you may have to go on the Traxxas website to verify but it should come with the same five cell 6V NiMH battery that my revo came with. May not be the same shape but pretty much the same battery. I’ve never heard of a little AA battery clam shell accessory.

    But since you’re asking about batteries, you might want to look into an aftermarket charger kinda like this one or equivalent .....

    https://www.hobbytown.com/thunder-po...610hvc/p632945

    ....because the one that it’ll come with will cause you to have to buy Traxxas’s expensive AC/DC converter unless you are just ok with charging your batteries from the cigarette lighter or power port in your car, or unless if you already perhaps have an AC to DC converter with a cigarette lighter plug on it.

    Oh, and if you decide not to get that particular charger that I put the link up to, you must make sure that the charger you get will charge a five cell battery because you don’t wanna do like what I did by mistake and bought a similar type charger as that one that only charges 6-cell and up NiMH and NiCad batteries. Also, it’ll probably work with a lot more chargers than that one but when you click on that web link, there will be an option to select that squid wiring adapter that will adapt the charger to almost every type of battery connector out there or, you could just do like what I did and buy just the adapter for the 7.2 V battery for your easy start, and the separate adapter that will plug into the truck to charge your receiver battery.


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    Okay, just making sure. I already have a charger and could probably just buy the charging leads for these different batteries.
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  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I would follow the Traxxas instructions pretty closely but really the one thing that I would do extra is each time the motor shuts off after each tank, is to spin that fly wheel so that your piston is not all the way up to top dead center as the motor cools off because what happens, as the motor warms up, the metal on the piston and the metal on the sleeve will actually shrink when they get warm and they will contract as they cool off so you can only imagine the amount of pressure that’ll be applied to the very top edge of your piston which can actually crush it just a little bit which will affect your motor’s compression because since these little motors don’t have piston rings like a car motor does, these little nitro motors actually rely on a very tight conical fit between the top of the cylinder sleeve and the top of the smooth-walled piston. That’s how they make their compression which is what makes your power.

    As far as keeping the transmission from shifting while you are breaking in your motor, it shouldn’t be shifting into second if you’re keeping your speed and your acceleration slow because if it actually shifts into second gear, you’re actually driving it too fast and holding the throttle open too long.


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    Okay, good to know. I think I might be able to get into this at least somewhat knowing what I am doing then. Thanks for all the help everyone! You guys pretty much answered all of my questions for me!
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Okay, just making sure. I already have a charger and could probably just buy the charging leads for these different batteries.
    Yeah, theyíre not that much, I think I only paid maybe three or four dollars a piece for the little flat plug which is pretty much the same connector that the servos use to plug into the receiver radio and the other one that I have, I think itís called Tamaiyah connector or whatever it is which is whatís on the big 7.2 V battery thatíll run your easy start system.

    But hang on a sec, didnít you say you were getting the Tmax classic? I thought I read that above in your opening post so I went to Traxxasís website for the owners manual and if youíre getting the Tmax classic, youíre basically gonna have a spot somewhere to put 4 AA batteries so you wonít even have to have a charge adapter for your receiver batteries since your receiver runs off AAs. And as far as whether or not they have a conversion kit to where you could run a 6 V battery pack, youíll just have to look into that because I donít know.


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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Okay, just making sure. I already have a charger and could probably just buy the charging leads for these different batteries.
    You bet man, and sorry about that confusion when we were talking about leaning the high-speed needle out when youíre breaking it inÖLOL. Iím really fortunate that grizz spoke up and caught that.


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  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Yeah, they’re not that much, I think I only paid maybe three or four dollars a piece for the little flat plug which is pretty much the same connector that the servos use to plug into the receiver radio and the other one that I have, I think it’s called Tamaiyah connector or whatever it is which is what’s on the big 7.2 V battery that’ll run your easy start system.

    But hang on a sec, didn’t you say you were getting the Tmax classic? I thought I read that above in your opening post so I went to Traxxas’s website for the owners manual and if you’re getting the Tmax classic, you’re basically gonna have a spot somewhere to put 4 AA batteries so you won’t even have to have a charge adapter for your receiver batteries since your receiver runs off AAs. And as far as whether or not they have a conversion kit to where you could run a 6 V battery pack, you’ll just have to look into that because I don’t know.


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    I guess I will just have to wait for someone to chime in here to let me know if the double A's can be trusted or if it is safe to use a NiMh or LiPo pack for the reciever.
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    Nitro questions

    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I guess I will just have to wait for someone to chime in here to let me know if the double A's can be trusted or if it is safe to use a NiMh or LiPo pack for the reciever.
    Yeah, that I donít know but if there was any way you could easily substitute those AA batteries for an actual battery pack, I would definitely go that route no matter what. As long as you donít forget to turn your radio off when youíre done using it, those batteries will last a pretty good while but the receiver batteries on the truck, youíd probably be replacing those quite a bit if you just stuck with the AAs. Had to re-edit the post because I just now saw that you said either a nickel metal hydride battery or a LipoÖ I wouldnít worry about looking for a Lipo battery because you donít need that much electricity just to run the electronics on a nitro vehicle. If youíre wanting to get away from having to replace alkaline batteries all the time, you can either get you some rechargeable AAĎs or just figure out if thereís a way where you can buy the nickel metal hydride battery pack and just use that.

    I canít imagine your new Tmax being any different from my Revo but on mine, I can get about two to three tanks of fuel out of mine before I have to either switch battery packs or just put the truck up for a while and charge the battery that itís got in it.


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    Last edited by corneileous; 04-02-2021 at 05:18 PM.

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Yeah, that I don’t know but if there was any way you could easily substitute those AA batteries for an actual battery pack, I would definitely go that route no matter what. As long as you don’t forget to turn your radio off when you’re done using it, those batteries will last a pretty good while but the receiver batteries on the truck, you’d probably be replacing those quite a bit if you just stuck with the AAs. Had to re-edit the post because I just now saw that you said either a nickel metal hydride battery or a Lipo… I wouldn’t worry about looking for a Lipo battery because you don’t need that much electricity just to run the electronics on a nitro vehicle. If you’re wanting to get away from having to replace alkaline batteries all the time, you can either get you some rechargeable AA‘s or just figure out if there’s a way where you can buy the nickel metal hydride battery pack and just use that.

    I can’t imagine your new Tmax being any different from my Revo but on mine, I can get about two to three tanks of fuel out of mine before I have to either switch battery packs or just put the truck up for a while and charge the battery that it’s got in it.


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    Now that I think about it, if both packs have the same voltage and the size is right, then there should be no difference between 4 AA batteries and a 5 cell NiMh battery like the one in your Revo. Theoretically, I should be able to just swap them out with no decrease in performance. If anything, it should actually increase the performance.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Now that I think about it, if both packs have the same voltage and the size is right, then there should be no difference between 4 AA batteries and a 5 cell NiMh battery like the one in your Revo. Theoretically, I should be able to just swap them out with no decrease in performance. If anything, it should actually increase the performance.
    The Tmax and the Revo 3.3 pretty much use the same battery pack except for the one for the Tmax has two of the five batteries stacked on top of the other three and on mine, all the batteries are stacked in a row but if Iím not mistaken, they are both the same voltage at 6V and even the same milliamp hours of 1200.


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    I use Odonnel 30% R/C/ racing fuel, I find the RTR formula's to be too oily and lacking in higher rpm performance.. Thing is, use something that is common, you don't want something that has sat on a shelf for a long time or that you can not get a consistent supply of. This way you are not having to deal with heavy retuning all the time...

    As far as tuning, I have helped quite a few people in the past and wrote this article which has been in the FAQ section of the forums for a long time. It will help you with your quest for getting your tuning skills honed... https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ul-Tuning-tips
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  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    I use Odonnel 30% R/C/ racing fuel, I find the RTR formula's to be too oily and lacking in higher rpm performance.. Thing is, use something that is common, you don't want something that has sat on a shelf for a long time or that you can not get a consistent supply of. This way you are not having to deal with heavy retuning all the time...

    As far as tuning, I have helped quite a few people in the past and wrote this article which has been in the FAQ section of the forums for a long time. It will help you with your quest for getting your tuning skills honed... https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ul-Tuning-tips
    Is it okay to run 30% in the 2.5 engine? Traxxas says to run 10-20% nitro. In your link, you also say to use Traxxas Top Fuel. Should I stick to the manual first, or what you say first? Also, how long does one tank of fuel last in the T-Maxx classic?
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-04-2021 at 06:44 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Is it okay to run 30% in the 2.5 engine? Traxxas says to run 10-20% nitro. In your link, you also say to use Traxxas Top Fuel. Should I stick to the manual first, or what you say first? Also, how long does one tank of fuel last in the T-Maxx classic?
    Just like electric: it depends on how you drive. You could see 10-15 minutes of drive time but the nice thing is that you can bring it in, leave the engine run and do a quick refuel and head back out.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Is it okay to run 30% in the 2.5 engine? Traxxas says to run 10-20% nitro. In your link, you also say to use Traxxas Top Fuel. Should I stick to the manual first, or what you say first? Also, how long does one tank of fuel last in the T-Maxx classic?
    The higher the nitro % the more sensitive it is to tuning, this is why they say that in the manual. Stick to the manual first as far as nitro % but it does not have to be Traxxas Top Fuel if you can't find it. Actually I found Odonnel's Racing formula to be easier to tune with... But that's just me...
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  26. #26
    Where can you even get the T-Maxx classic anymore? Is it going to be discontinued or is it really just that popular? I can't seem to find one anywhere!
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Where can you even get the T-Maxx classic anymore? Is it going to be discontinued or is it really just that popular? I can't seem to find one anywhere!
    Youíll have to wait a couple weeks but you can get one from Traxxasís website. You might even find one at RC Hobby Explosion, RC planet, Tower Hobbies or A-Main Hobbies. Just have to look around.


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  28. #28
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Where can you even get the T-Maxx classic anymore? Is it going to be discontinued or is it really just that popular? I can't seem to find one anywhere!
    Traxxas website is listing it as Ships Mid April. LINK to T-Maxx classic:tmaxxclassic

    Covid pandemic slowed production world-wide.

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    RC Planet has them, and theyíre a little cheaper than on the Traxxas site.


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  30. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Traxxas website is listing it as Ships Mid April. LINK to T-Maxx classic:tmaxxclassic

    Covid pandemic slowed production world-wide.

    Its like I have to re-learn patience every time I want something. Local hobby stores don't seem to have it either.
    Maybe I might look into the T-Maxx 3.3 or the Revo 3.3. Are those any good?
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  31. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    RC Planet has them, and they’re a little cheaper than on the Traxxas site.


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    Just saw this post after. Is RC Planet a credible place to buy from?
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Just saw this post after. Is RC Planet a credible place to buy from?
    I think they are. Iíve bought a ton of parts for my Revo 3.3 from there including my new OS21 nitro motor and theyíre also the same place where I bought my Maxx from.


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  33. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I think they are. I’ve bought a ton of parts for my Revo 3.3 from there including my new OS21 nitro motor and they’re also the same place where I bought my Maxx from.


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    I will look into RCPlanet or A-Main. They seem to have some of the better prices. Why do you think local stores can't get it? I called my closest hobby shop and they thought that it was discontinued.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  34. #34
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Maybe I might look into the T-Maxx 3.3 or the Revo 3.3. Are those any good?
    I prefer the Revo over the T-Maxx's.

    If you can swing it, the T-Maxx 3.3 or Revo 3.3 are a great improvement over the Classic. You get the bigger engine along with a stronger driveline.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Its like I have to re-learn patience every time I want something. Local hobby stores don't seem to have it either.
    Maybe I might look into the T-Maxx 3.3 or the Revo 3.3. Are those any good?
    Being that I have a Revo 3.3 and have never had the T-max anything, I would say that it all depends on what youíre wanting to do with it because even though I may be wrong, the Revo 3.3 would probably be better if you decided to put it on a track just because of how itís suspension is set up whereas the Tmax is just more like a regular monster truck. The Revo kind of combines a monster truck and a truggy, especially when itís converted to forward-only with a center differential and Iím assuming the rear brake kit as well.

    As far as what the actual classification is of the Revo 3.3, I donít really know but I do know that itís not like a regular monster truck which is what the X max, the max, the T max or the stampede is. I guess if you will, itís probably still pretty much a monster truck but itís more of one that has a lot more of an advanced and a lot more of a tunable suspension since the coil-over shocks are mounted inboard of the chassis that use rocker arms and pushrods rather than the shocks just being mounted directly to the lower A arms from the chassis. You can change the suspension geometry just from where the pushrods attach to the A-arms to using different sized rocker arms for a more progressive suspension.

    I love my Revo, Iíve had a lot of fun with it and when you get the suspension actually kind of tuned on it itís not a bad little truck. So far, I just leave the pushrods in their factory original position on the a arms and even though Iíve upgraded to aluminum rockers, theyíre still pretty much set up the same way as the factory stock progressive 2 rockers and really the only thing Iíve changed is just shock oil in the shocks. I tried running the long travel kit that will come with that Revo but it just hurts itís handling so much that itís almost just better off without it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I will look into RCPlanet or A-Main. They seem to have some of the better prices. Why do you think local stores can't get it? I called my closest hobby shop and they thought that it was discontinued.
    I have no idea why that is and I especially have no idea why the closest hobby shop you talked about that you called that thought it was discontinued when all they would have to do is just go on their computer and go to TraxxasĎs website and theyíll see exactly what Grizz posted when it said that theyíll be available mid April.

    But I would definitely go with the Tmax 3.3 over the classic only because like Grizz said, you get better parts and a bigger motor and as far as which one between the Revo 3.3 and the Tmax 3.3, I donít think youíll be disappointed with either. You just get more suspension options with the Revo 3.3 and to be honest with you, even though my Maxx will blow the doors off my Revo, the Revo handles way better and absorbs the jumps better than my Maxx does. And thatís not even in stock configuration either, with those tiny, flimsy wheels and tires the Maxx comes with. Iíve got the WideMaxx kit on it along with pretty much the same size tires that the T-Maxx Classic comes with but with the even deeper offset wheels that comes standard on the new Revo 3.3ís that widens the stance even more and it still doesnít handle like my revo does.


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  37. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    especially when it’s converted to forward-only with a center differential and I’m assuming the rear brake kit as well.
    Wait, the Revo has reverse? I really wanted the T-Maxx classic because it has reverse, but if the Revo has it, I might have to change my mind here. Also, it can be a truggy, monster truck, and short course truck (because it is pretty much a wider Slayer). I think I am borderline sold on the Revo right now.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Wait, the Revo has reverse? I really wanted the T-Maxx classic because it has reverse, but if the Revo has it, I might have to change my mind here. Also, it can be a truggy, monster truck, and short course truck (because it is pretty much a wider Slayer). I think I am borderline sold on the Revo right now.
    It sure does. Thatís pretty much the only reason why I havenít added the center DEF to my Revo 3.3 along with the rear brake kit is because in order to do that, you have to do away with your reverse.

    But yeah, donít get me wrong, even though itís not necessarily like a full blown truggy, it is still pretty capable to run with them only because like I said earlier, you just have so many different options and adjustments that you can make to that suspension.


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  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    It sure does. That’s pretty much the only reason why I haven’t added the center DEF to my Revo 3.3 along with the rear brake kit is because in order to do that, you have to do away with your reverse.

    But yeah, don’t get me wrong, even though it’s not necessarily like a full blown truggy, it is still pretty capable to run with them only because like I said earlier, you just have so many different options and adjustments that you can make to that suspension.
    I guess I will have to save up a little bit more money so I won't be broke after buying a Revo.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  40. #40
    Well, thanks guys for all the help and for steering me in the right direction as far as what truck to choose. I will keep you guys posted after I am able to get a Revo.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

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