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Thread: Nitro questions

  1. #161
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I just checked again and it buzzes when in reverse but not forward. If I help the servo out, then it sometimes stops buzzing in reverse, but if I don't, then it will continue to buzz when in reverse only. It does not buzz when in forward. Is there a way to stop it from buzzing in reverse?
    Sometimes you need the transmission to turn for the reverse gear to engage, so it releases the strain on the servo. Shift the servo to reverse again, and roll the car backward to see if the buzzing disappears.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  2. #162
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Sometimes you need the transmission to turn for the reverse gear to engage, so it releases the strain on the servo. Shift the servo to reverse again, and roll the car backward to see if the buzzing disappears.
    The buzzing did not go away when I did that. I looked closer and it is bottoming out the ball cup. The servo is using more travel than the cup can provide. I also tried moving the link to the closer hole on the horn and the the buzzing persisted.
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  3. #163
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    The buzzing did not go away when I did that. I looked closer and it is bottoming out the ball cup. The servo is using more travel than the cup can provide. I also tried moving the link to the closer hole on the horn and the the buzzing persisted.
    Have you tried moving the servo horn one notch over (or does it do the same thing except in the other direction)?
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  4. #164
    RC Racer MRSRT8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I just checked again and it buzzes when in reverse but not forward. If I help the servo out, then it sometimes stops buzzing in reverse, but if I don't, then it will continue to buzz when in reverse only. It does not buzz when in forward. Is there a way to stop it from buzzing in reverse?
    https://ibb.co/wMXwR4T
    https://ibb.co/sW6Jtfm


    This is a photo of my Revo forward and reverse linkage. You may need to remove and readjust the shifter servo horn at an angle. Not sure if this will help.
    Last edited by MRSRT8; Yesterday at 02:39 PM.
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  5. #165
    Quote Originally Posted by MRSRT8 View Post
    https://ibb.co/wMXwR4T
    https://ibb.co/sW6Jtfm


    This is a photo of my Revo forward and reverse linkage. You may need to remove and readjust the shifter servo horn at an angle. Not sure if this will help.
    Your pics helped. My horn is at that same angle. Do you mind posting a video of the travel of your servo when you shift from forwards to backwards?

    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Have you tried moving the servo horn one notch over (or does it do the same thing except in the other direction)?
    I attempted to move it back one notch, but it made the stripping sound. I moved it one notch forward, and then it hits the servo box cover. If I help the servo, then it will not continue to make the buzzing noise, but if I don't help it, then it buzzes. It is like it is not strong enough to go all the way into reverse and hold it without buzzing.
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; Yesterday at 04:18 PM.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  6. #166
    RC Racer MRSRT8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Your pics helped. My horn is at that same angle. Do you mind posting a video of the travel of your servo when you shift from forwards to backwards?



    I attempted to move it back one notch, but it made the stripping sound. I moved it one notch forward, and then it hits the servo box cover. If I help the servo, then it will not continue to make the buzzing noise, but if I don't help it, then it buzzes. It is like it is not strong enough to go all the way into reverse and hold it without buzzing.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/14Ay...ew?usp=sharing
    Hope this video helps
    Philippians 2:10-11
    Have a nice day! :)

  7. #167
    Quote Originally Posted by MRSRT8 View Post
    Thanks. I think that mine is traveling fine then and there is just a bit of strain on it. It does not need to move much to stop buzzing. Does yours buzz when in reverse?
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  8. #168
    UPDATE TIME!!!!!!

    It appears that in the process of getting my Revo 3.3 tuned today, my clutch has gone out. I think the spring is gone because when you rotate the spur gear, you can hear the clutch shoes dragging on the clutch bell.

    Someone help me!!! I really want to like nitro, but this truck is making that very difficult!!!
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  9. #169
    RC Racer MRSRT8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Thanks. I think that mine is traveling fine then and there is just a bit of strain on it. It does not need to move much to stop buzzing. Does yours buzz when in reverse?
    My Revo doesn't make any buzzing noise when shifted into reverse
    Philippians 2:10-11
    Have a nice day! :)

  10. #170
    RC Racer MRSRT8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    UPDATE TIME!!!!!!

    It appears that in the process of getting my Revo 3.3 tuned today, my clutch has gone out. I think the spring is gone because when you rotate the spur gear, you can hear the clutch shoes dragging on the clutch bell.

    Someone help me!!! I really want to like nitro, but this truck is making that very difficult!!!
    How that happened? I thought your Revo is fairly new?
    Philippians 2:10-11
    Have a nice day! :)

  11. #171
    Quote Originally Posted by MRSRT8 View Post
    How that happened? I thought your Revo is fairly new?
    I have no idea how it could have happened. I got my Revo 3.3 about a month ago, but it have only been run maybe 4-8 days in that time period (due to problems and weather).

    Does anyone know why my clutch went out?

    Also, I think my engine was running lean, but it was also running cold. Sometimes it would get up to around 250, but it was running in the 220s when I checked it and there was a very thin smoke trail at WOT. Am I not giving it enough time to warm up?
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; Yesterday at 06:32 PM.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  12. #172
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    UPDATE TIME!!!!!!

    It appears that in the process of getting my Revo 3.3 tuned today, my clutch has gone out. I think the spring is gone because when you rotate the spur gear, you can hear the clutch shoes dragging on the clutch bell.

    Someone help me!!! I really want to like nitro, but this truck is making that very difficult!!!
    That's not good... You might need to contact Traxxas Support again. This time, try to explain to them the whole story and see what they say. Instead of using the Live Chat function, you will most likely get a better response from them if you give them a phone call (also start an email with a link to this thread).

    If you got it from a LHS, can also bring it there and see if anyone is able to help you there. Hopefully, everything gets resolved soon.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  13. #173
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    That's not good... You might need to contact Traxxas Support again. This time, try to explain to them the whole story and see what they say. Instead of using the Live Chat function, you will most likely get a better response from them if you give them a phone call (also start an email with a link to this thread).

    If you got it from a LHS, can also bring it there and see if anyone is able to help you there. Hopefully, everything gets resolved soon.
    I can't use the live chat function anyways because it is broken. I have school tomorrow and it is past 6:30pm right now where I live so it is getting late. It looks like this is going to be another 1-2 week wait .
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; Yesterday at 07:07 PM.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  14. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I can't use the live chat function anyways because it is broken. I have school tomorrow and it is past 6:30pm right now where I live so it is getting late. It looks like this is going to be another 1-2 week wait .

    I am beginning to think that this truck is made of lemonade....
    Sorry to hear that. You can still try to send them an email if you'd like.

    I think my Granite is also half-lemon
    It came with a deformed rear diff out of the box, and it took Arrm* over a hundred days (no joke, 3 months+) to actually send me the part. After about a month, I didn't want to wait anymore, so I bought another rear diff myself, so now I have a spare diff. A few runs or so later, the steering started to jitter, and it completely stopped working (I was driving it on pavement!), so I purchased a cheap $20 servo from Amazon. Since I have the V3, it comes with a 23T servo horn, so I also needed a 25t for it to work, but the 25t servo horn was out of stock everywhere, so I also had to wait several more months for that to come, and finally, here it is! lol



    TBH, it is very annoying (and kind of frustrating), but it's really not all that bad. It just means that you get to enjoy the truck more once it's problem-free!
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  15. #175
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    The break in period is hard on a clutch so it does let go what seems prematurely. Did the spring break or the shoe at the pin? Spend the $8 (last time I looked they were this price…been so long) on a new clutch and flip it so it is “leading edge” vs stock “trailing edge.” Give the spring an extra spin, attach the two ends and let it spin back so that it winds itself a couple twists in. Install it and make sure the end of the spring is in the middle of the shoe. Clean any glazing off the inside of the bell and then reinstall. I end up wearing out my clutches vs breaking them after installing them this way. In fact I still have my MIP clutch on after all these years.
    The Super Derecho

  16. #176
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    The break in period is hard on a clutch so it does let go what seems prematurely. Did the spring break or the shoe at the pin? Spend the $8 (last time I looked they were this price…been so long) on a new clutch and flip it so it is “leading edge” vs stock “trailing edge.” Give the spring an extra spin, attach the two ends and let it spin back so that it winds itself a couple twists in. Install it and make sure the end of the spring is in the middle of the shoe. Clean any glazing off the inside of the bell and then reinstall. I end up wearing out my clutches vs breaking them after installing them this way. In fact I still have my MIP clutch on after all these years.
    I will need to open it up to look at the clutch, so I don't know where it broke yet. How long were you running the MIP clutch and can you still get them? Do you have any ideas about my tuning issue?

    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Sorry to hear that. You can still try to send them an email if you'd like.

    I think my Granite is also half-lemon
    It came with a deformed rear diff out of the box, and it took Arrm* over a hundred days (no joke, 3 months+) to actually send me the part. After about a month, I didn't want to wait anymore, so I bought another rear diff myself, so now I have a spare diff. A few runs or so later, the steering started to jitter, and it completely stopped working (I was driving it on pavement!), so I purchased a cheap $20 servo from Amazon. Since I have the V3, it comes with a 23T servo horn, so I also needed a 25t for it to work, but the 25t servo horn was out of stock everywhere, so I also had to wait several more months for that to come, and finally, here it is! lol

    TBH, it is very annoying (and kind of frustrating), but it's really not all that bad. It just means that you get to enjoy the truck more once it's problem-free!
    Well, I am glad that I am dealing with Traxxas here. Their customer service is pretty good most of the time and their products are high quality, too. I take back any negative claims I have ever made about the Revo 3.3 at any time, because I think that once I can get it dialed in, my Revo 3.3 will be an awesome truck.
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; Yesterday at 08:36 PM.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  17. #177
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I also install my clutch shoes the same as Double G. I made this picture to show trailing edge vs leading edge. You can see where the clutch shoe would break (the blue area) when they are installed in trailing edge.



    Another thing that I do is to swap out the stock clutch bell bearings. I never had good luck with the stock Traxxas ones. They wouldn't last very long before needing to be replaced. I've been having good luck with AVID bearings.

    The best advice I learned in tuning an RC nitro engine is not to tune by temperature. DO NOT lean the engine to raise the temperature (there's other ways if it's needed). When I tuned by performance and a smoke trail (instead of worrying over the temperature it was at) I started enjoying the fun they offer. I only use the temperature as a tuning guide. Basically checking to see if I'm overheating. If I hit 280F I richen the HSN and/or let the engine cool down.

  18. #178
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I also install my clutch shoes the same as Double G. I made this picture to show trailing edge vs leading edge. You can see where the clutch shoe would break (the blue area) when they are installed in trailing edge.



    Another thing that I do is to swap out the stock clutch bell bearings. I never had good luck with the stock Traxxas ones. They wouldn't last very long before needing to be replaced. I've been having good luck with AVID bearings.

    The best advice I learned in tuning an RC nitro engine is not to tune by temperature. DO NOT lean the engine to raise the temperature (there's other ways if it's needed). When I tuned by performance and a smoke trail (instead of worrying over the temperature it was at) I started enjoying the fun they offer. I only use the temperature as a tuning guide. Basically checking to see if I'm overheating. If I hit 280F I richen the HSN and/or let the engine cool down.
    Thanks for the picture grizzy03! I will have to see what happened to my clutch when I open it, but I will definitely take your (and Double G's) advice on installing the clutch shoes. I must have gotten stuck in the temperature trap. Do you think that I should wrap the cooling head up with something to bring the temps up a bit when it is running with lower temps? What is the lowest temperature that I can safely run my engine at?
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; Yesterday at 09:25 PM.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

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