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Thread: Nitro questions

  1. #81
    Well, I cleaned the one-way bearing. Pulled a lot of junk out of it. The engine turned over after that and I continued break-in for about 5 minutes and then the truck stopped shifting into second at WOT. Shortly afterwards, the truck stalled. I think that the bearing has failed and more junk is locking up the bearing and causing the engine to stall. It will start now, but sometimes it slips periodically while turning over. The junk from the bearing won't ruin my crankshaft, right? I had to run the motor to get as much fuel out as I could, but am afraid that it could ruin something. The engine will run now for 2-8 seconds and then stalls but as it idles, it sounds like something is catching and will stop the engine (one way bearing maybe?).

    Also, how do you get fuel lines off? I need to clean them out but I can't figure out how to get them off . I pulled, but they stretch and I am afraid that they will break and I don't have any more fuel lines right now.

    Finally, will denatured alcohol harm or get absorbed into the plastics on the revo? And how long is the longest safe amount of time the engine can sit without after run maintenance?
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-28-2021 at 11:57 AM.
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  2. #82
    Anyone? Some of these questions still need answers.
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  3. #83
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    You did buy this truck brand new, correct? Itís just awful strange that your EZ start one way bearing is already causing you fits and that youíve got gunk to clean out this early. You are running it with the air filter installed, right?

    And as far as your fuel line, thatís pretty much why you have so much hose is because if you canít successfully use like a precision slotted screwdriver the pry the end of the hose off, you just take a little pair of scissors or a razor knife and cut the hose right next to the little hose barbs they slip over.

    But while youíve done any of your break in tanks, have you ever leaned out your high speed needle at all? I canít remember if Traxxas advises you to do that between your tanks or not but if itís stalling and if you have leaned it out, richen the mixture up a little.

    About your remaining fuel in your tank, Iím sure a lot of people would probably disagree with me but instead of just pouring out whatever fuel on the ground that may be left in the tank, I just use my fuel bottle to suck it out of there and put it right back in my bottle of fuel just because I just canít see pouring out good fuel.

    As far as the afterrun, it doesnít take a whole lot to pull the glow plug out and put a few drops in there and then use your finger on the flywheel to turn it a few times to make sure that it gets good and lubed.


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  4. #84
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    Oh, and denatured alcohol, regular alcohol or even a little bit of brake cleaner will work on your fuel tank but thatís about the only part that I would use the brake cleaner on is your fuel tank.


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  5. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    You did buy this truck brand new, correct? Itís just awful strange that your EZ start one way bearing is already causing you fits and that youíve got gunk to clean out this early. You are running it with the air filter installed, right?

    And as far as your fuel line, thatís pretty much why you have so much hose is because if you canít successfully use like a precision slotted screwdriver the pry the end of the hose off, you just take a little pair of scissors or a razor knife and cut the hose right next to the little hose barbs they slip over.

    But while youíve done any of your break in tanks, have you ever leaned out your high speed needle at all? I canít remember if Traxxas advises you to do that between your tanks or not but if itís stalling and if you have leaned it out, richen the mixture up a little.

    About your remaining fuel in your tank, Iím sure a lot of people would probably disagree with me but instead of just pouring out whatever fuel on the ground that may be left in the tank, I just use my fuel bottle to suck it out of there and put it right back in my bottle of fuel just because I just canít see pouring out good fuel.

    As far as the afterrun, it doesnít take a whole lot to pull the glow plug out and put a few drops in there and then use your finger on the flywheel to turn it a few times to make sure that it gets good and lubed.


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    I bought the truck new and the air filter has been installed while running. The only settings I have changed are the idle (because the truck would run away without the brakes on) and briefly I richened the HSN because the truck would stall if any throttle was applied, but turned it back close to the factory setting. The truck won't shift into second after about 5 minutes of running. When this happens, traxxas says to lean it out, but I did not do that because it would most likely make my problem even worse.

    Also, how do I get my truck to stop creeping? The idle is great and when it is cold, it won't creep but when it warms up, it starts to creep a lot (like maybe 5 mph). The clutch is also blowing black dust everywhere. If I reduce the idle, then it dies.

    As I said in my previous post, it stalls abruptly with a click and when it runs, it sounds like something is periodically catching before it eventually completely stalls out.
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-29-2021 at 07:53 PM.
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  6. #86
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    I may have mentioned before, I set the idle and leave it. A properly set LSN will allow the engine to idle low enough, cool off and not engage the clutch.
    The Super Derecho

  7. #87
    I think an update is due now on my Revo 3.3. I bought a new one way bearing and installed it, which fixed the starting issue I had. When I took out the original OWB, it was black inside and I couldn't even see all of the rollers completely clearly. The new one was red inside and I could see the rollers. I also richened the HSN about half a turn and richened the LSN about an 8th of a turn. Temps got to a max of somewhere around 265 with these settings. I had it a bit lean before and it got to 311 I think, which is way too hot. I think I still need to richen my LSN and HSN just a little bit since my pinch test was around 2 seconds and temps were just a bit high, and it creeps a little bit, so the idle needs to come down a bit as well, but this thing runs like a champ! Thanks to all of you experienced members who have helped me and to traxxas support for being so helpful. I now am a nitro guy, and I love it. I will definitely run this truck a lot, because there just isn't any other thing quite like nitro.

    Once again, thanks everyone! I am part of you nitro guys now!
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  8. #88
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    Awesome!

    For tuning, don't turn both needles at the same time. Tune the HSN and then the LSN. If you haven't already, cut a hole in the windshield in front of the cooling head to allow air to flow through to the engine.

    I would recommend setting aside some time and find a large parking lot. Get the engine running and play with the needles to see and hear the differences. You will find that a rich HSN takes its time to get rpms and will not hit second gear. A lean HSN will get to those upper rpms quick but will sound like it is choking (much like hitting the rev limiter at idle in your auto but sped up 10x). If you still have some smoke up top and it doesn't sound like it is hesitating to get up to the higher rpms then it is good. If you are getting 2 seconds for the pinch and it is creeping then richen the LSN up just a little bit more; then the temps and idle will come down.

    I also found that I change my driving style a little bit when running my Revo. The engines don't like WOT 100% of the time so I'm off throttle just a little bit more.
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  9. #89
    Does anyone know if the transmission will stay locked in forward only if I remove the shift servo? My shift servo is dead, but it looks like there is some sort of spring on the transmission that might hold it, but I don't know. If not, then what can I do to keep my transmission in forward until I can get a new servo?
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  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Does anyone know if the transmission will stay locked in forward only if I remove the shift servo? My shift servo is dead, but it looks like there is some sort of spring on the transmission that might hold it, but I don't know. If not, then what can I do to keep my transmission in forward until I can get a new servo?
    Your reverse servo already went? But removing the servo or while the old servo doesnít work while you wait for a new one, itíll have forward. The movement of that servo from its resting position is what shifts the transmission into reverse so you should be good. In other words, you donít need the servo to make forward work because if the servo is not engaged then you just wonít t be able to shift into reverse until you get another servo.


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  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Does anyone know if the transmission will stay locked in forward only if I remove the shift servo? My shift servo is dead, but it looks like there is some sort of spring on the transmission that might hold it, but I don't know. If not, then what can I do to keep my transmission in forward until I can get a new servo?
    I am not familiar with Traxxas nitro models, but for the TRX-4, if you remove the shift servo, the shift lever can move by itself. Is your shift servo dead as in the motor inside or are the gears stripped? If only the motor is dead, the servo should still be able to lock the transmission gear, so leave the servo in there until the new one arrives. Otherwise, you will need to find another way to lock the shift lever forward.
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  12. #92
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Your reverse servo already went? But removing the servo or while the old servo doesn’t work while you wait for a new one, it’ll have forward. The movement of that servo from its resting position is what shifts the transmission into reverse so you should be good. In other words, you don’t need the servo to make forward work because if the servo is not engaged then you just won’t t be able to shift into reverse until you get another servo.


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    Yup, the servo is dead. Apparently unplugging and replugging the shift servo makes it die. This is the second (or third) part failure in the 4 or 5 days I have run the truck though I have owned it for just over 2 weeks. This includes break in. Keep in mind I have not abused this thing in any way. Are Revos known to have such a high failure rate? I am confident that once I get these few problems fixed, it will be a great truck, but I have never been able to get through a day of running without something failing.

    I just wasn't sure if not having a shift servo would make the gears in the tranny move freely and make it go into reverse while it is moving or something.
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  13. #93
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    I am not familiar with Traxxas nitro models, but for the TRX-4, if you remove the shift servo, the shift lever can move by itself. Is your shift servo dead as in the motor inside or are the gears stripped? If only the motor is dead, the servo should still be able to lock the transmission gear, so leave the servo in there until the new one arrives. Otherwise, you will need to find another way to lock the shift lever forward.
    I don't know what in the servo has died, but it is definitely not the gears, as the servo turns very smooth. I turned the servo, so I don't know where neutral is, and I am afraid it could be misaligning something, which is also a potential problem.
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  14. #94
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    My nitro Revo has been extremely reliable for the past 10+ years. Replaced a couple servos, an a-arm, clutches, engine(s), exhaust pipe and bearings.
    The Super Derecho

  15. #95
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    My nitro Revo has been extremely reliable for the past 10+ years. Replaced a couple servos, an a-arm, clutches, engine(s), exhaust pipe and bearings.
    Hopefully once I get a new servo, that will be the end of the lemon parts on my revo. I really like this truck, but I just don't think I have ever owned any trucks that have broken so much in such a small period of time.
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  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I don't know what in the servo has died, but it is definitely not the gears, as the servo turns very smooth. I turned the servo, so I don't know where neutral is, and I am afraid it could be misaligning something, which is also a potential problem.
    Have you tried calling one of the best Customer Service groups out there??? Call Tech Support, I've heard great things about them and, well I've been around here since 2005..... I've seen posts that I would not believe how well they took care of their customers...
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  17. #97
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    Have you tried calling one of the best Customer Service groups out there??? Call Tech Support, I've heard great things about them and, well I've been around here since 2005..... I've seen posts that I would not believe how well they took care of their customers...
    I used their chat function yesterday, and they said that they would send me a new servo. They also sent me a one way bearing when I was having a problem with it, but I am still waiting for it to come. Meanwhile, I bought a new OWB with my own money to keep going, but I was not about to dish another $30 out of my wallet just mere days later, so I put some after run oil down the carb and will wait the week or whatever for the new servo to come.

    Traxxas support is great, but the reps are a mixed bag. Some of them will hassle you about it telling you to send it in and others will just say "we'll send you a new one" once you give them a receipt for proof of purchase.

    Speaking of the OWB, the bad one that I pulled out of my revo looked different than the one that I bought. The one I bought has red plastic internals and there would be 3 rollers together than a space (red plastic space) before the next 3 rollers, while the one that I took out of it appeared to have black internals and in between every roller, there would be a space. Keep in mind that I bought this truck new, so it is not old. What is this difference and could it have something to do with its premature failure?
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 05-05-2021 at 03:24 PM.
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  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    I used their chat function yesterday, and they said that they would send me a new servo. They also sent me a one way bearing when I was having a problem with it, but I am still waiting for it to come. Meanwhile, I bought a new OWB with my own money to keep going, but I was not about to dish another $30 out of my wallet just mere days later, so I put some after run oil down the carb and will wait the week or whatever for the new servo to come.

    Traxxas support is great, but the reps are a mixed bag. Some of them will hassle you about it telling you to send it in and others will just say "we'll send you a new one" once you give them a receipt for proof of purchase.

    Speaking of the OWB, the bad one that I pulled out of my revo looked different than the one that I bought. The one I bought has red plastic internals and there would be 3 rollers together than a space (red plastic space) before the next 3 rollers, while the one that I took out of it appeared to have black internals and in between every roller, there would be a space. Keep in mind that I bought this truck new, so it is not old. What is this difference and could it have something to do with its premature failure?
    You could test the OWB if you had another starter plate and shaft to put it on. Honestly though, if there was an issue with a batch of OWB's you'd bee seeing a lot more posts.

    F.Y.I. not many servo mfr's will do anything more than give you an RMA number to return the servo for repair..... So Kudo's to Traxxas. 9 out of 10 times it's been just gummed up rollers refusing to grip the shaft.
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  19. #99
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    This is a neat thread! Very informative. If nitro RCs and nitro fuel weren't so expensive, I'd go nitro too. Hope you work all those bugs out, GreenSpider!
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  20. #100
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    You could test the OWB if you had another starter plate and shaft to put it on. Honestly though, if there was an issue with a batch of OWB's you'd bee seeing a lot more posts.

    F.Y.I. not many servo mfr's will do anything more than give you an RMA number to return the servo for repair..... So Kudo's to Traxxas. 9 out of 10 times it's been just gummed up rollers refusing to grip the shaft.
    As I said before in my previous post, Traxxas support is great, it is just that sometimes I have issues with them (like prematurely closing the chat) and what not. In the end, I am able to work it out with them though, and I am thankful for how receptive they are.

    As for the OWB, I actually pulled a lot junk (solid stuff) out of it when I cleaned it, which was most likely a sign of internal parts failing. It worked for a little bit, bit then it would slip a bit and not work properly. Putting a new one in fixed the problem. Not slipping anymore, and knock on wood, it stays that way.

    Quote Originally Posted by VisionSlash42 View Post
    This is a neat thread! Very informative. If nitro RCs and nitro fuel weren't so expensive, I'd go nitro too. Hope you work all those bugs out, GreenSpider!
    Thanks VisionSlash42! Nitro is certainly more fun than electric (when your stuff actually works, lol).
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  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by VisionSlash42 View Post
    This is a neat thread! Very informative. If nitro RCs and nitro fuel weren't so expensive, I'd go nitro too. Hope you work all those bugs out, GreenSpider!
    If nitro wasnít so expensive?? I donít know what electric RC youíre running but electric is more expensive than nitro if you get into the faster electric stuff. My nitro is all Ive had up until just a few months ago and between three battery packs, a sophisticated charger and the truck, my Maxx cost me $1100Ö. Sure, I found out I really didnít need three batteries but still, itís just under a grand. lol. With the new upgraded aftermarket motor I just bought, my nitro Revo has cost me that much but right when I first bought it, only $600 with a $25 gallon of fuel.


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  22. #102
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    $25 gallon of fuel.
    $25 fuel!!???? What do you use? Fuel costs me about $40 a gallon.
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  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    If nitro wasn’t so expensive?? I don’t know what electric RC you’re running but electric is more expensive than nitro if you get into the faster electric stuff. My nitro is all Ive had up until just a few months ago and between three battery packs, a sophisticated charger and the truck, my Maxx cost me $1100…. Sure, I found out I really didn’t need three batteries but still, it’s just under a grand. lol. With the new upgraded aftermarket motor I just bought, my nitro Revo has cost me that much but right when I first bought it, only $600 with a $25 gallon of fuel.


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    ... base model electrics (without upgrades) are pretty affordable, but I can see why you think electric is more expensive.

    I would definitely like to get into nitro sometime in the future, but I will stick with electric for now, since I don't have too much time to drive my RCs (would have to empty the tank and all that stuff just for a few minutes of run time lol).
    (thinking of starting with a used roller and a new engine)
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  24. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    $25 fuel!!???? What do you use? Fuel costs me about $40 a gallon.
    fuel at my LHS is $20/quart
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  25. #105
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    fuel at my LHS is $20/quart
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    ... base model electrics (without upgrades) are pretty affordable, but I can see why you think electric is more expensive.

    I would definitely like to get into nitro sometime in the future, but I will stick with electric for now, since I don't have too much time to drive my RCs (would have to empty the tank and all that stuff just for a few minutes of run time lol).
    (thinking of starting with a used roller and a new engine)
    If you buy only a quart, then it might be $20, but I am talking about a gallon, which is what I buy.

    To empty the tank, you can just suck out the fuel with the fuel bottle and save it for later. No need to throw it away (unless you won't be using it any time soon). I would recommend if you are just starting with nitro for the first time that you start with a brand new RTR unit until you learn everything that you need to. If you do it, make sure you have plenty of patience, as there will be a bit of a learning curve. Do a lot of research before you go out and buy anything.

    BTW, the E-Revo is $100 more than the nitro Revo 3.3. Base models can be pretty affordable, but the big fast ones are very expensive.
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 05-05-2021 at 07:16 PM.
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  26. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    $25 fuel!!???? What do you use? Fuel costs me about $40 a gallon.
    Well, that was back in 2007, when I first bought my revoÖ.. and it mighta been $35 for that tin can gallon, canít remember but I buy fuel online and itís between $14-$16 for a quart. I only get quarts because they canít ship gallonís but still, electrics if they run LiPo, are pretty much the same as nitro.


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  27. #107
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Well, that was back in 2007, when I first bought my revoÖ.. and it mighta been $35 for that tin can gallon, canít remember but I buy fuel online and itís between $14-$16 for a quart. I only get quarts because they canít ship gallonís but still, electrics if they run LiPo, are pretty much the same as nitro.
    Well if it was 14 years ago I could see the price discrepancy. Just about anything in RC was probably cheaper in 2007. What brand fuel do you run? I run VP.
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  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Well if it was 14 years ago I could see the price discrepancy. Just about anything in RC was probably cheaper in 2007. What brand fuel do you run? I run VP.
    Primarily just Traxxas.


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  29. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    fuel at my LHS is $20/quart
    Fuel at mine is $80 CAD a gallon. Main reason why I have a bone-stock brushed Slash: Budget. But if you can afford it, get it!
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  30. #110
    Quote Originally Posted by VisionSlash42 View Post
    Fuel at mine is $80 CAD a gallon. Main reason why I have a bone-stock brushed Slash: Budget. But if you can afford it, get it!
    Wow, that's very expensive! And I thought that fuel was expensive here! That makes me all the more thankful to live in the US with around $40 a gallon. Around $65 for a gallon of fuel is way high!
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 05-06-2021 at 10:10 AM.
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  31. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    If you buy only a quart, then it might be $20, but I am talking about a gallon, which is what I buy.

    To empty the tank, you can just suck out the fuel with the fuel bottle and save it for later. No need to throw it away (unless you won't be using it any time soon). I would recommend if you are just starting with nitro for the first time that you start with a brand new RTR unit until you learn everything that you need to. If you do it, make sure you have plenty of patience, as there will be a bit of a learning curve. Do a lot of research before you go out and buy anything.

    BTW, the E-Revo is $100 more than the nitro Revo 3.3. Base models can be pretty affordable, but the big fast ones are very expensive.
    I think I've only seen them in quarts, but I don't go there often enough to be certain. Hopefully, they do have them in gallons. Also, thanks for the tips!

    Quote Originally Posted by VisionSlash42 View Post
    Fuel at mine is $80 CAD a gallon. Main reason why I have a bone-stock brushed Slash: Budget. But if you can afford it, get it!
    Yikes that's pretty expensive...



    (just a question, but does anyone know whether the TRX 2.5 or 3.3 engine is quieter?)
    Last edited by RCWilly; 05-06-2021 at 12:38 PM.
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  32. #112
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    I think I've only seen them in quarts, but I don't go there often enough to be certain. Hopefully, they do have them in gallons. Also, thanks for the tips!



    Yikes that's pretty expensive...



    (just a question, but does anyone know whether the TRX 2.5 or 3.3 engine is quieter?)
    No problem!

    I would imagine that the TRX 2.5 is probably quieter because it is smaller, but the difference in noise level might not be noticeable (I have never had a 2.5 so I don't know what they are like). If your neighbor complains about the noise though, then they are probably just doing that to spite you because even a leaf blower is wayyyyyyy louder than any of these nitro engines. None of my family members complain about the noise, so unless you are revving your engine right in front of your neighbor's window, there should not be any problem. If you drive in the grass, it is way quieter though.
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  33. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    (just a question, but does anyone know whether the TRX 2.5 or 3.3 engine is quieter?)
    The only noticeable difference in the engines as far as sound would be controlled by the pipe that is used. I tried an RD Logics rear twin exhaust on my 2.5 Tmaxx and talk about crazy loud. That pipe would wake the dead. LoL

  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    No problem!

    I would imagine that the TRX 2.5 is probably quieter because it is smaller, but the difference in noise level might not be noticeable (I have never had a 2.5 so I don't know what they are like). If your neighbor complains about the noise though, then they are probably just doing that to spite you because even a leaf blower is wayyyyyyy louder than any of these nitro engines. None of my family members complain about the noise, so unless you are revving your engine right in front of your neighbor's window, there should not be any problem. If you drive in the grass, it is way quieter though.
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    The only noticeable difference in the engines as far as sound would be controlled by the pipe that is used. I tried an RD Logics rear twin exhaust on my 2.5 Tmaxx and talk about crazy loud. That pipe would wake the dead. LoL
    Thanks for the input guys! I originally had the Slayer Pro in mind, but I am now leaning more towards the T-Maxx or Revo... Anyways, I guess I'll decide when I am able to get one.
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  35. #115
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Thanks for the input guys! I originally had the Slayer Pro in mind, but I am now leaning more towards the T-Maxx or Revo... Anyways, I guess I'll decide when I am able to get one.
    The T-Maxx is really just the T-Maxx right now and it might not be easy to convert it so any of the other versions of it (aka E-Maxx, S-Maxx, Old narrow arms T-Maxx, Modern classic T-Maxx, ect.) and these variations have mostly been discontinued, and are all monster trucks of some sort. If you choose the Revo 3.3, you can make it into a Slayer Pro later if you want and change it back and forth depending on what you want. It would not be so easy to do this with a T-Maxx, but if you are looking for a traditional nitro monster truck, then the T-Maxx would be the one to go with. I personally like the Revo better though as it is cleaner with the rear exit exhaust (not as much unburnt oil/fuel residue on the truck). If you had the T-Maxx, then I would imagine that you would have exhaust residue blown all over the side of the truck. Pretty much everyone I have talked to told me to buy the Revo, and mine is giving me problems, but hopefully if you buy one, you can get through without the issues I have and if you read this thread, you can see my progress/problems with my Revo 3.3.

    Oh, and the T-Maxx 3.3 does not have reverse (or my Revo currently because the shift servo somehow broke ), but if that is a factor for you like it was for me, then get the Revo 3.3. If you want an RTR T-Maxx with reverse, then you will have to get the T-Maxx Classic. The Revo is also bigger than the T-Maxx by the way. You will have fun with it. Much more involved than anything electric. It would be nice to see another person to join the nitro part of the hobby. Help me save nitro! Don't let it die out!
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  36. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    The T-Maxx is really just the T-Maxx right now and it might not be easy to convert it so any of the other versions of it (aka E-Maxx, S-Maxx, Old narrow arms T-Maxx, Modern classic T-Maxx, ect.) and these variations have mostly been discontinued, and are all monster trucks of some sort. If you choose the Revo 3.3, you can make it into a Slayer Pro later if you want and change it back and forth depending on what you want. It would not be so easy to do this with a T-Maxx, but if you are looking for a traditional nitro monster truck, then the T-Maxx would be the one to go with. I personally like the Revo better though as it is cleaner with the rear exit exhaust (not as much unburnt oil/fuel residue on the truck). If you had the T-Maxx, then I would imagine that you would have exhaust residue blown all over the side of the truck. Pretty much everyone I have talked to told me to buy the Revo, and mine is giving me problems, but hopefully if you buy one, you can get through without the issues I have and if you read this thread, you can see my progress/problems with my Revo 3.3.

    Oh, and the T-Maxx 3.3 does not have reverse (or my Revo currently because the shift servo somehow broke ), but if that is a factor for you like it was for me, then get the Revo 3.3. If you want an RTR T-Maxx with reverse, then you will have to get the T-Maxx Classic. The Revo is also bigger than the T-Maxx by the way. You will have fun with it. Much more involved than anything electric. It would be nice to see another person to join the nitro part of the hobby. Help me save nitro! Don't let it die out!
    Thanks for all the info! Really helpful! I most likely would want a rear exhaust (rear tire would probably get oily and stuff with a side exhaust) so it's probably down to the Slayer and Revo! With further research, the Slayer does not have reverse either, but I don't really mind that. Hmmm... Revo it is! (hopefully, I will manage to save up fast enough to get one by the end of this year) And yes, I will definitely try to save nitro.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  37. #117
    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    Thanks for all the info! Really helpful! I most likely would want a rear exhaust (rear tire would probably get oily and stuff with a side exhaust) so it's probably down to the Slayer and Revo! With further research, the Slayer does not have reverse either, but I don't really mind that. Hmmm... Revo it is! (hopefully, I will manage to save up fast enough to get one by the end of this year) And yes, I will definitely try to save nitro.
    YESSS!!! I have won another person over to the nitro side! It is up to us young people to keep it going.
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

  38. #118
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    I'm fairly new to nitro and bought a used t-maxx. When its running out of fuel it starts rev up a lot. Just wondering if this is normal because I've had a revo for about a month and it revs up a tiny bit before running out of fuel but the maxx revs up WAY higher than the revo.

  39. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJBurck View Post
    I'm fairly new to nitro and bought a used t-maxx. When its running out of fuel it starts rev up a lot. Just wondering if this is normal because I've had a revo for about a month and it revs up a tiny bit before running out of fuel but the maxx revs up WAY higher than the revo.
    I am unfamiliar with nitro engines, but engines do tend to run leaner when they are running on near-empty tanks.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  40. #120
    Quote Originally Posted by JJBurck View Post
    I'm fairly new to nitro and bought a used t-maxx. When its running out of fuel it starts rev up a lot. Just wondering if this is normal because I've had a revo for about a month and it revs up a tiny bit before running out of fuel but the maxx revs up WAY higher than the revo.
    Your low speed needle is too rich. Lean it out some. I would recommend just doing a full tune on it. Here is something that can help you in tuning: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ul-Tuning-tips
    Who needs coffee when you have a 10KV+ capacitor?

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