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Thread: Nitro questions

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Well, thanks guys for all the help and for steering me in the right direction as far as what truck to choose. I will keep you guys posted after I am able to get a Revo.
    I think youíll like it. Iíve sure enjoyed mine. Unless youíve already got one, I would definitely invest in one of those little infrared laser temp guns so that you can keep track of the temperature of your engine.

    Not sure if youíll like the factory springs and shock oil but I run 50w in mine and I was running the gold springs in the back and the tan springs in the back. Rides pretty good. I say was, because recently I took the long travel springs thatíll come with your new revo when you buy it, to see how they work since theyíre heavier springs.

    Oh, and one thing Iíll tell you that I learned the hard way and whether or not theyíll say that in your owners manual Ė they didnít say it mine but depending on how often you run your truck, and this also goes for if you do decide to get the Tmax for the Tmax classic but after about a gallon, gallon and a half of nitro fuel you go through, youíll want to pull your easy start assembly off the back of your motor and take that little one way bearing out and clean it and re-oil it with some 5W 30 synthetic motor oil because if you donít, itíll eventually seize up on the shaft and itís not fun getting it off there once it gets seized up.


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  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Oh, and one thing I’ll tell you that I learned the hard way and whether or not they’ll say that in your owners manual – they didn’t say it mine but depending on how often you run your truck, and this also goes for if you do decide to get the Tmax for the Tmax classic but after about a gallon, gallon and a half of nitro fuel you go through, you’ll want to pull your easy start assembly off the back of your motor and take that little one way bearing out and clean it and re-oil it with some 5W 30 synthetic motor oil because if you don’t, it’ll eventually seize up on the shaft and it’s not fun getting it off there once it gets seized up.
    That seems good to know. I will have to remember that.
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  3. #43
    Sorry if this sound like a stupid question but why are there two needles on a nitro engine? What would I need to look out for if one needle or the other needle or both needles need to be tuned?
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  4. #44
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    You need to tune both needles. Through the Support button above, download the manual for the Revo or T-Maxx or even the 3.3 engine on the tune. Once you get it and hear the tune, it's really not difficult...just a little twist here or there.
    https://traxxas.com/support/Tuning-Y...st-Performance
    https://traxxas.com/support/How-Star...-Racing-Engine
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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Sorry if this sound like a stupid question but why are there two needles on a nitro engine? What would I need to look out for if one needle or the other needle or both needles need to be tuned?
    It was explained completely in the link I had posted... It simplifies things a lot.

    In my link I explain the HSN needle controls the overall fuel flow, just like the spigot for a hose on the outside of the house, the LSN is just like the spray nozzle at the end of the hose and reacts the same way. This is explained in the carburetor section of the owners manual and is linked to in my thread.

    I ask you please go over your manual carefully. Most people having their first nitro have a big learning curve to overcome and their first engine does not last as long as after they have learned their tuning skills. Seriously follow this link and read it, go into the links provided. You will get that tuning down a lot faster. Here's the link again, it's been viewed over 150,00 times so I guess it does some good. https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...ul-Tuning-tips
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  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    In my link I explain the HSN needle controls the overall fuel flow, just like the spigot for a hose on the outside of the house, the LSN is just like the spray nozzle at the end of the hose and reacts the same way. This is explained in the carburetor section of the owners manual and is linked to in my thread.
    Thanks for the explanation Nitronaught. That really helped me understand the low and high speed needles better.
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  7. #47
    Is it okay to break in the engine when the temperature outside is in the 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit range? Traxxas says that the engine must be at room temperature before starting (70 degrees Fahrenheit).
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  8. #48
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    It should be fine. Don't lean it out to get the temps up though.
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  9. #49
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    You can take a heat gun or even a hair dryer and warm the engine up prior to starting it.


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  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    You can take a heat gun or even a hair dryer and warm the engine up prior to starting it.


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    I do that no matter what the temps are, I want my engine block over 100 degrees fir the first start. I've rebuilt my R/C engines over 14 times since 2004 and been very successful. IT's makes sense to get the block expanded before starting it up for the first time since the parts are all trying to find their homes and the engines are tight. Having the block expanded a little while it is new takes a heck of a lot of stress off the conrod and the internals.... I averaged 7-8 gallons of use, 6 gallons of pure performance....
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  11. #51
    Are block heaters worth investing in then? They are more compact than a heat gun or hair dryer for going out.
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  12. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I can get about two to three tanks of fuel out of mine before I have to either switch battery packs or just put the truck up for a while and charge the battery that it’s got in it.
    Wait a minute, just looked back at this post and I realized that that is only half the length of break-in. Does this mean that I will need two packs to get through break-in? It is a process that you can't really stop in the middle of.
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  13. #53
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Wait a minute, just looked back at this post and I realized that that is only half the length of break-in. Does this mean that I will need two packs to get through break-in? It is a process that you can't really stop in the middle of.
    Not sure what your talking about as far as need two packs?

    The break-in procedure for Traxxas engines is 5 steps. Each step is one fuel tank filled. You don't need to do all 5 steps in one sitting. But you need to do all 5 steps in order and after all five have been done, your engine is broken in and ready to be tuned for performance.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Wait a minute, just looked back at this post and I realized that that is only half the length of break-in. Does this mean that I will need two packs to get through break-in? It is a process that you can't really stop in the middle of.
    Iím glad you caught that man because I just realized that thatís not completely accurateÖ LOL. If I make sure my battery is good and charged before running it, I can probably get upwards of maybe six or seven tanks of fuel out of mine before I might have to start worrying about charging the battery but then again, it probably wouldnít be a bad idea to have an extra battery on hand because you just never know and being that itís highly advisable to let your motor cool at bottom dead center for about 10 minutes between tanks, thatís plenty of time to swap your packs out if need be.


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  15. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Not sure what your talking about as far as need two packs?

    The break-in procedure for Traxxas engines is 5 steps. Each step is one fuel tank filled. You don't need to do all 5 steps in one sitting. But you need to do all 5 steps in order and after all five have been done, your engine is broken in and ready to be tuned for performance.
    It only says to give the engine cool down time for the first two tanks of break-in. After that, cool down is none.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Not sure what your talking about as far as need two packs?

    The break-in procedure for Traxxas engines is 5 steps. Each step is one fuel tank filled. You don't need to do all 5 steps in one sitting. But you need to do all 5 steps in order and after all five have been done, your engine is broken in and ready to be tuned for performance.
    Thatís purely my fault because I messed up and told him that he should only be able to get about 3 to 4 or five tanks of fuel out of a single charge on his battery pack for his receiver and I realized since he pointed that out, that that wasnít correctÖ Because when I broke in my little OS motor, I was able to do all five tanks of fuel right after another and I didnít even bother to the plug the charger into the battery pack before I started the break-in procedure on my new motor.


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  17. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I’m glad you caught that man because I just realized that that’s not completely accurate… LOL. If I make sure my battery is good and charged before running it, I can probably get upwards of maybe six or seven tanks of fuel out of mine before I might have to start worrying about charging the battery but then again, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to have an extra battery on hand because you just never know and being that it’s highly advisable to let your motor cool at bottom dead center for about 10 minutes between tanks, that’s plenty of time to swap your packs out if need be.
    Okay, I just saw this post after I posted my last one. As long as I can make it through break-in with one good charge on my battery, then that would be good enough for me.
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  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    It only says to give the engine cool down time for the first two tanks of break-in. After that, cool down is none.
    I guess that partís just up to you then because I really donít know what the difference is between the Revo 3.3 motor and the OS21TM motor like Iíve got which is supposed to be direct aftermarket replacement of the Traxxas motor and they had me let it cool for 10 minutes between each tank so as far as what Traxxas is trying to say youíre going to benefit from by only letting it cool between the first and the second tank, I have no idea. Personally I donít think it matters but thatís just me.


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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Okay, I just saw this post after I posted my last one. As long as I can make it through break-in with one good charge on my battery, then that would be good enough for me.
    Well like Grizz said, you donít have to do it all at one time, you just have to go through all of the steps before itís considered broken in, even if you only like, do two tanks on Saturday and the other three tanks on Sunday.


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  20. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Well like Grizz said, you don’t have to do it all at one time, you just have to go through all of the steps before it’s considered broken in, even if you only like, do two tanks on Saturday and the other three tanks on Sunday.


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    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I guess that part’s just up to you then because I really don’t know what the difference is between the Revo 3.3 motor and the OS21TM motor like I’ve got which is supposed to be direct aftermarket replacement of the Traxxas motor and they had me let it cool for 10 minutes between each tank so as far as what Traxxas is trying to say you’re going to benefit from by only letting it cool between the first and the second tank, I have no idea. Personally I don’t think it matters but that’s just me.


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    All good info. That will give me more time to do what I need to, and cool down time seems to just depend on who you ask, so I might do the 10 minutes per tank cool down. Anyone have any input on getting a block heater for warm up?
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  21. #61
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Well like Grizz said, you don’t have to do it all at one time, you just have to go through all of the steps before it’s considered broken in, even if you only like, do two tanks on Saturday and the other three tanks on Sunday.
    Correct. Just follow the steps of the manufacturer and there's nothing to worry about. You can do all in one day or one step every five days, lol.

  22. #62
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    No need for a block heater. I've never used one, nor used a hair dryer. You could bring the truck inside and get it to room temp and then bring it out.

    What has helped me was (before the first start-up) to squirt a little WD-40 down the glow plug hole and turn over the engine so that the piston/sleeve are lubricated - didn't want the nitro to wash down the cylinder (yes, I realize there is some oil in the fuel).

    And to reiterate, you don't need to complete the break-in process all in one shot. Just be sure to manually spin the engine over so that the piston is at bottom dead center when you are done running it...and get into the habit of doing that the entire life of the engine.
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  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    No need for a block heater. I've never used one, nor used a hair dryer. You could bring the truck inside and get it to room temp and then bring it out.

    What has helped me was (before the first start-up) to squirt a little WD-40 down the glow plug hole and turn over the engine so that the piston/sleeve are lubricated - didn't want the nitro to wash down the cylinder (yes, I realize there is some oil in the fuel).

    And to reiterate, you don't need to complete the break-in process all in one shot. Just be sure to manually spin the engine over so that the piston is at bottom dead center when you are done running it...and get into the habit of doing that the entire life of the engine.
    100% dead on. I only use a hair dryer when doing break in on a cold engine. But that's just me. Block heater = waste of money, absolutely no need.... Oh, and if you are going where there is no electrical outlets you can always place you R/C inside your car with the heater on as I've been told by those who live in the colder climates than Florida....
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  24. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    100% dead on. I only use a hair dryer when doing break in on a cold engine. But that's just me. Block heater = waste of money, absolutely no need.... Oh, and if you are going where there is no electrical outlets you can always place you R/C inside your car with the heater on as I've been told by those who live in the colder climates than Florida....
    Alright then, thanks for the input! Just wanted to make sure the current climate where I live is not too cold for breaking in a new engine.


    Well guys, the time has come, the money is in and I need to make a decision. To buy a Revo, or not to buy a Revo, that is the question. I get really really unsure about big purchases like this. This smiley pretty much sums up how I feel:

    I will probably report back with pictures after my decision has been made. Thanks for all of the help guys!
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  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    100% dead on. I only use a hair dryer when doing break in on a cold engine. But that's just me. Block heater = waste of money, absolutely no need.... Oh, and if you are going where there is no electrical outlets you can always place you R/C inside your car with the heater on as I've been told by those who live in the colder climates than Florida....
    I would think a block heater would be for someone who has a lot of cars and goes through a lot of engines, or maybe perhaps has a little hobby shop and gets paid extra to break in a costumerís new motor but for just the regular RCíer, a hair dryer or heat gun is more than plenty.


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  26. #66
    Does anyone here know if VP 20% racing fuel is any good? It is 14% oil. That is what my hobby shop had.
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-17-2021 at 04:35 PM.
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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    Does anyone here know if VP 20% racing fuel is any good? It is 14% oil. That is what my hobby shop had.
    VP racing fuels have been around for a long time. I have not had the opportunity to use their R/C fuel but I do use their 110 octane racing fuel in my 1970 Z28 with 383 Stroker and 12:1 compression no problems.... Very well known racing fuel... I'd ask the hobby shop how long they've been selling that fuel for. Then make a few visits and see if people have been buying it. If it's anything like the fuel I'm using on my Z28 it should be good stuff!!!!
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  28. #68
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    VP rc fuel must be decent (or has a good distribution network). When I went on vacation to Myrtle Beach that's the only fuel the local hobby shops carried.

    I tend to use what my local hobby shop has/carries. Trying to get RC fuel shipped is tough. Hazmat fees have made the shipped price crazy high. Using what's available local is also nice when you run out of fuel and want some quick. No need to re-tune for a different fuel.

  29. #69
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitronaught View Post
    VP racing fuels have been around for a long time. I have not had the opportunity to use their R/C fuel but I do use their 110 octane racing fuel in my 1970 Z28 with 383 Stroker and 12:1 compression no problems.... Very well known racing fuel... I'd ask the hobby shop how long they've been selling that fuel for. Then make a few visits and see if people have been buying it. If it's anything like the fuel I'm using on my Z28 it should be good stuff!!!!
    The people at my hobby shop say that that is what everyone uses, so I think that it should be good. Plus, you said that their full-size car fuel is good. I just wanted to get a secondary opinion on it.
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  30. #70
    Well, I haven't posted on this thread for about a week, so I figured I would post an update on what has been going on. I chose the Revo 3.3. I bought it new at my LHS 4/17/21. I also bought a gallon of nitro amongst some other things. I will finally be breaking it in tomorrow, and I am soooo excited!

    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-25-2021 at 01:53 PM.
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  31. #71
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Congratulations!

    There's just something about the sound of a nitro engine the electrics don't have.

  32. #72
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Congratulations!

    There's just something about the sound of a nitro engine the electrics don't have.
    Thanks! You sure got that right!

    This is probably the first time since I got into the hobby that I have gotten a truck that is complicated enough that I cannot figure out how everything works just by looking at it. The transmission seems especially confusing, but I am sure working on this truck will be a piece of cake in no time!

    One of my Dad's friends used to run nitro airplanes and said that the nitro oil makes things all slimy and cannot be cleaned off. Is this true, or is there a way to get nitro gunk off of the parts?
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  33. #73
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    Congrats man


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  34. #74
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenSpider25 View Post
    One of my Dad's friends used to run nitro airplanes and said that the nitro oil makes things all slimy and cannot be cleaned off. Is this true, or is there a way to get nitro gunk off of the parts?
    The Revo with a rear exhaust and rubber exhaust deflector, it's much cleaner than airplanes. There really isn't much of a mess. Mostly on the right rear a-arms when the deflector falls off.

    I've had good luck wiping the oil up with a paper towel and then the rest with a small amount of alcohol on a rag.

  35. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Congrats man

    Thanks corneileous!


    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    The Revo with a rear exhaust and rubber exhaust deflector, it's much cleaner than airplanes. There really isn't much of a mess. Mostly on the right rear a-arms when the deflector falls off.

    I've had good luck wiping the oil up with a paper towel and then the rest with a small amount of alcohol on a rag.
    So the alcohol won't destroy the plastic or leave any residue? The only reason why I asked the original question was because if the nitro gunk is anything like shock oil, then it would be a very difficult cleanup, since plastic likes to absorb oil. I just really don't like the feeling of oily parts and sometimes it gets messy because dirt can stick to the oil.
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-26-2021 at 08:14 AM.
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  36. #76
    I started my Revo and when I was at the beginning of the first tank, it was starting to run away and the idle had to go down, so I put down the idle a little bit. Is this okay or did I just ruin my engine? I'm really worried because it said not to adjust anything until the 3rd tank, but it was running away and I didn't know what to do. Help!
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  37. #77
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Don't worry. Adjusting the idle isn't going to hurt anything.
    Take your time with the break-in and you'll be fine.

  38. #78
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Don't worry. Adjusting the idle isn't going to hurt anything.
    Take your time with the break-in and you'll be fine.
    Okay, thanks!


    Well, I would say it was almost a good break-in, but about half way through the 5th break-in tank, the truck stalled and the one way bearing is either shot or slipping. Because of this, the starter spins but the motor does not turn over. I contacted traxxas and they said that they would send me a new one, but in the meantime, I will probably just buy another one. It just sucks because I haven't even finished break-in yet. Do I need to do any maintenance on it if it is going to sit for a day, or can I just leave it alone and come back to it tomorrow?
    Last edited by GreenSpider25; 04-26-2021 at 08:46 PM.
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  39. #79
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    Sorry about the one-way bearing. You can try cleaning it with wd40 and then re-oil it with a drop or two of oil. This has always fixed mine when they act up. When reinstalling it back on be sure to install the bearing with the text towards the engine.

    As far as after run maintenance, I personally don't do anything special if I'm going to use it the next day. After running for the day I just empty the fuel tank and turn the engine over so the piston is at the bottom of its stroke. Any longer than a weekend I perform after-run maintenance.

  40. #80
    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Sorry about the one-way bearing. You can try cleaning it with wd40 and then re-oil it with a drop or two of oil. This has always fixed mine when they act up. When reinstalling it back on be sure to install the bearing with the text towards the engine.

    As far as after run maintenance, I personally don't do anything special if I'm going to use it the next day. After running for the day I just empty the fuel tank and turn the engine over so the piston is at the bottom of its stroke. Any longer than a weekend I perform after-run maintenance.
    I just don't really want to empty the tank yet, since there is like half a tank of nitro in it currently. I just don't want it to gum up overnight. So if I left for about 20 hours without any kind of maintenance (other than having the piston at BDC), it will be fine for tomorrow and it won't gum up the tank or the engine or anything?
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