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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    34

    Should have looked into the whole "set steering limits" thing a little more

    I got a new aluminum steering set to replace the old plastic one, and it chewed right through the metal driveshaft! I'll try and set up the steering better next time I guess

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by TTTFFF View Post
    I got a new aluminum steering set to replace the old plastic one, and it chewed right through the metal driveshaft! I'll try and set up the steering better next time I guess
    Check that diff output shaft for looseness or "lateral" play!! See first, if the grub screw or screw pin has backed out at all, i mean put a 1.5mm on it and tighten, if loose at all, threadlock it! I even put a dab of shoe goo on top of the hole just incase!

    The diff outputs wear out fairly easily/quickly, and if u dont at LEAST check the front diff while the whole front module is off the chassis...it could kick thine-own-buttocks 3 days from now! Lol!

    I found that the differential screws which hold ring gear onto diff case, actually back out over time and cause the rung gear to "walk" throughout it's revolutions, further beating up the screw holes, as well as chewing the spider gears up!

    If i may make a suggestion or three, incase you are either un-aware, or have yet to perform the mods??

    1. Like i said, front module off, might as well check diff (open up housing, pull diff, check for lubrication, looseness, chewed up teeth or even strange wear on any of the gears.
    Clean, re-lube, and re-assemble. Make sure the shims are in the right places!!! I even added a shim to one diff output gear as the manual only showed one side having a shim, and i found it REALLY helped with the slop!

    2. Throw in XO-1-spec diff gears. (Traxxas has a kit with tougher gears, as well as a support bar you stuff into differential case which toughens up the whole she-bang pretty darn well! -obviously, u can wait till the front diff starts grinding then the truck stops moving, eventually...or as stated, since half-ish the work is done to get there. ....


    3. Fastlanemachine.net has a Slash 4x4 Aluminum diff cup, which has been a Godsend to the reliability of these diffs on 4-6s power!

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    34
    Thanks for the input! I have the XO-1 diff gears in this already, front and rear. I'll be sure to check them for slop anyway while it's apart.

  4. #4
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    67
    I never set up my steering limits and I've seen nothing like that yet. Yowzaa.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    3,811
    Quote Originally Posted by Pintail View Post
    I never set up my steering limits and I've seen nothing like that yet. Yowzaa.
    I had a similar issue on my slampede with the t-bone center shaft. Luckily, I believe it's solid aluminum vs a tube. In my head, I thought it was just rocks getting stuck there, but then someone recently mentioned EPA adjusting to avoid this and I was like "duh... I'm an idiot". My EPA was having the hot racing arm run right into the thing.

    Now I have less steering, but also not causing damage. I suppose I could try changing where the tierods connect to the axle carriers since my alloy ones have 2 positions, just have a feeling that will make it really twitchy though as it will require less servo movement for more wheel movement. It's already hard to drive geared around 50mph...
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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