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  1. #1
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    TRX4 Keeps Cutting Out

    Hi. Got a TRX4 Land Rover Defender 110 Adventure Edition which has developed a problem. After about a minute or so of using it, it suddenly stops and does not respond to the transmitter. When looking at the ESC itís flashing green. If I turn the ESC off and on again, it continues to flash green. I have to disconnect the battery, re-connect then switch the ESC back on again to continue using the TRX4 again but then it will stop again after a minute or so.

    The TRX4 is stock with no upgrades running on a Traxxas Lipo battery.

    Hoping someone can help me out here.

  2. #2
    RC Champion RCWilly's Avatar
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    The throttle trim may be set incorrectly. Try recalibrating the Transmitter or set the throttle trim to 0.
    Everyday's a gift, thus now is called the present.

  3. #3
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    Great, thanks for the info. I’ll give that a try.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCWilly View Post
    The throttle trim may be set incorrectly. Try recalibrating the Transmitter or set the throttle trim to 0.
    Sounds like this is it... its the only error code having a green flashing LED on the ESC.

    Check out PG 32 of the manual, it will give you better direction for fixing the issue...

    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-OM-EN-R02.pdf
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  5. #5
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greatscott View Post
    Sounds like this is it... its the only error code having a green flashing LED on the ESC.

    Check out PG 32 of the manual, it will give you better direction for fixing the issue...

    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...-OM-EN-R02.pdf
    Page 32 is about the transmitter and receiver, not the ESC. Page 20 is the ESC.



    Here is what it says about a flashing green light on the ESC. Possible loose connection.


  6. #6
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    Sounds like a rx problem. Thats a code for not recieving input like grizzly said. I'd try another rx if you can, and if that doesn't reseolve it assume its the esc going out.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the info chaps. I’ll look into it tomorrow and hopefully resolve the issue.

  8. #8
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    No luck trying to sort this problem out. The instructions only indicate that the ESC may not be plugged in correctly, which it is. Iíve also tried calibrating the ESC by following the instructions, press and hold power button until green led turns red, but itís then supposed to flash once, but it doesnít, it stays red so I canít continue calibration. It just flashes green now every time I connect the battery and switch on so Iím at a loss now. Iím really hoping there isnít a fault with the ESC as the TRX4 has had very little use considering I purchased it in 2018, so Iíll be disappointed if itís failed.

    Also to point out as I havenít mentioned this, the steering also cuts out which makes me wonder if itís the RX that has the problem.
    Last edited by JonHC; 04-21-2021 at 04:38 PM.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Have you ensured the throttle expo on the radio is set to zero?
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  10. #10
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    Yes, it’s at zero.

  11. #11
    RC Racer sarthetrx4's Avatar
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    This may be a daft suggestion, but does the transmitter have a decent set of batteries?

    And did you turn on the car within the 20 seconds of turning on the transmitter?
    Stephen
    An Englishman in France
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  12. #12
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    Yeah, I did think about that and changed the batteries for a new set just in case, and the car is turned on within 20 seconds of the transmitter. I’ve just turned the trx on and got a solid green led. I left it switched on without any input from the tx for about 10 minutes and the led stayed a solid green. As soon as I moved the steering a few turns, the trx stopped and the led started flashing green.

  13. #13
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    Just took the TRX outside to test, worked fine then stopped in less than a minute. I checked on the ESC and there was no led at all. It was as if it turned itself off. Turned on again, worked again until I put it into high speed mode then died again. Wouldnít turn on again after 2 attempts then came back on after third attempt. The battery was almost full.

    Iíve just ordered a replacement lipo battery in case itís faulty. Admittedly, itís the same (and only) lipo battery Iíve had since I bought the TRX In 2018 but I can honestly say itís had very little use. If it turns out not to be the battery, Iíll have to take it to my local model shop to be looked at.

  14. #14
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    If the battery was bad it should have been going into low voltage cutoff and blinking unless the battery was literally dead. I would agree that you should take it to the shop and see what they can find. My guess is your reciever or your esc is bad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JonHC View Post
    Just took the TRX outside to test, worked fine then stopped in less than a minute. I checked on the ESC and there was no led at all. It was as if it turned itself off. Turned on again, worked again until I put it into high speed mode then died again. Wouldnít turn on again after 2 attempts then came back on after third attempt. The battery was almost full.

    Iíve just ordered a replacement lipo battery in case itís faulty. Admittedly, itís the same (and only) lipo battery Iíve had since I bought the TRX In 2018 but I can honestly say itís had very little use. If it turns out not to be the battery, Iíll have to take it to my local model shop to be looked at.
    Have you gone through any water with it. Could be the seal on your ESC is wonky and that might be whats causing problems otherwise i would say it's your receiver or something else to do with the ESC.

  16. #16
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Possible it could be the BEC portion of the ESC is bad. Do you have a stand-alone BEC? You could use one to power your receiver and servos to bypass the ESC needing to do the work. It should help narrow down if it's an ESC issue or a receiver problem.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Possible it could be the BEC portion of the ESC is bad. Do you have a stand-alone BEC? You could use one to power your receiver and servos to bypass the ESC needing to do the work. It should help narrow down if it's an ESC issue or a receiver problem.
    This is a good idea, if you don't have an external BEC there are a few other things you could do which would basically emulate having an external BEC. One would be if you have another esc and receiver to test the esc with a new receiver and the receiver with a new esc and see if that narrows it down. However you run the risk of damaging another receiver if the BEC is going out on the esc and damaged the receiver, so that would not be fun. Another thing to do would require a few parts, but it would basically achieve what grizzly suggested. I have never tried this so I can't guarantee it wont damage a component or not work at all. However, to my knowledge, it should work fine. You'd need another esc of some kind with a 6v BEC output and 2 servo wire extensions, you could cut off the white wire on the extension between the known good esc and the old receiver, and connect it to one of the 2 steering channels. That way it wont be receiving or sending any signals. Then take another extension for the old esc and cut the red positive wire out so that it wont be transferring any power to the receiver, just signal. This should work fine to give a consistent power output to the receiver, and help to see if the esc or the rx is bad. If everything works as it should then I would say that your esc likely has a bad BEC and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't the issue could be in either the esc or the receiver, or possibly both. It should technically be possible to leave the white signal wire on the good esc and just use a normal plug, but you definitely have to cut the red wire on the old one to keep it from transferring power to the receiver as well. If you don't want to mess with any of this stuff, then bringing it to the local hobby shop isn't a bad idea.
    Last edited by TimJones123; 04-23-2021 at 03:43 PM.

  18. #18
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    Unfortunately, I don’t have any of those items. I ordered a new battery which arrived today and I tried out the TRX which ran for about a minute then cut out again. I checked the ESC and this time it was flashing red and green. I couldn’t turn it off so I had to disconnect the battery. I left it for a few seconds then re-connected but now it won’t power up at all. The lights on the car briefly light up then go out (it’s fitted with the TRX lighting kit).

    I’m going to make an appointment to take it to my local model shop to be looked at but I’ll suggest the BEC test to them before they try to push a new ESC on me!

  19. #19
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I would try unplugging everything from the receiver. Then just plug in the ESC back into CH2 (3rd slot up). This would eliminate any possible issues with the lights, servos, etc. If ESC still has LED codes there's nothing left but the ESC itself.

  20. #20
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    Ok, I'll try that as my final option tonight. Thanks.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I would try unplugging everything from the receiver. Then just plug in the ESC back into CH2 (3rd slot up). This would eliminate any possible issues with the lights, servos, etc. If ESC still has LED codes there's nothing left but the ESC itself.
    Ok, tried starting up with just the ESC plugged into the receiver and I’m getting nothing, not even error codes, no led at all. I’ve had a response from the model shop saying I can’t go in at the moment because of COVID restrictions so not a lot I can do at the moment. I would imagine I need to replace the ESC so does anyone know a good alternative to the stock Traxxas XL5hv ESC as it’s quite expensive (about £75). I believe Hobbywing do some good and inexpensive ESC’s.

  22. #22
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    If you want to stick with brushed motors, the most value for money option is the Hobbywing 1080 ESC.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by xagoras View Post
    If you want to stick with brushed motors, the most value for money option is the Hobbywing 1080 ESC.
    I second this. I just fried my xl5hv a few weeks ago in my trx6 and went with a 1080 off of amazon. I absolutely love it. So much nicer with the adjustability and its a lot quieter too.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimJones123 View Post
    I second this. I just fried my xl5hv a few weeks ago in my trx6 and went with a 1080 off of amazon. I absolutely love it. So much nicer with the adjustability and its a lot quieter too.
    I’ve just ordered the Hobbywing 1080 ESC fitted with Traxxas connector and motor bullets. It should arrive early next week so I should be back up and running soon!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonHC View Post
    I’ve just ordered the Hobbywing 1080 ESC fitted with Traxxas connector and motor bullets. It should arrive early next week so I should be back up and running soon!
    Cool, I love mine. To power the lighting controller, you should be able to use the pins on the esc that the programming card is used for, and when you want to program it, just unplug the lights. I forgot exactly how I have mine wired, but it will either plug right in with the stock plug, or I had to replace the stock plug on the lights with a servo plug. If you arent sure I can look when I get home Monday for you.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimJones123 View Post
    Cool, I love mine. To power the lighting controller, you should be able to use the pins on the esc that the programming card is used for, and when you want to program it, just unplug the lights. I forgot exactly how I have mine wired, but it will either plug right in with the stock plug, or I had to replace the stock plug on the lights with a servo plug. If you arent sure I can look when I get home Monday for you.
    Also, be careful that your voltage is set to the 6v not the 7.2v setting. I would personally double check this with the programming card before you plug anything into the esc like the reciever/lighting controller since 7.2v will most definitely fry some of these components.

  27. #27
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    If you are good with soldering, you can solder a JST plug on the battery poles and power the lights module from there.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimJones123 View Post
    Also, be careful that your voltage is set to the 6v not the 7.2v setting. I would personally double check this with the programming card before you plug anything into the esc like the reciever/lighting controller since 7.2v will most definitely fry some of these components.
    New ESC arrived today so itís been installed and everything is good again. In fact, I would say that itís better than the stock Traxxas ESC. The TRX4 just seems a lot smoother, quieter and the braking action is fantastic. I set the voltage to 6v as recommended. Only a couple of issues, the cable from the ESC to receiver is quite short and I couldnít follow the original cable route so itís quite close to the hi-low servo but I think it should be ok. The other thing is I canít plug the lights in. Unfortunately, the plug on the Traxxas lighting kit isnít compatible with the pins on the ESC so Iím going to have to make a cable up for that. Shouldnít be a problem.

    Happy itís running again!


  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonHC View Post
    New ESC arrived today so it’s been installed and everything is good again. In fact, I would say that it’s better than the stock Traxxas ESC. The TRX4 just seems a lot smoother, quieter and the braking action is fantastic. I set the voltage to 6v as recommended. Only a couple of issues, the cable from the ESC to receiver is quite short and I couldn’t follow the original cable route so it’s quite close to the hi-low servo but I think it should be ok. The other thing is I can’t plug the lights in. Unfortunately, the plug on the Traxxas lighting kit isn’t compatible with the pins on the ESC so I’m going to have to make a cable up for that. Shouldn’t be a problem.

    Happy it’s running again!

    Cool, glad you like it. I love my 1080's. What I did with the wiring for the light kit was I bought a kit of servo extensions, I used one for the esc so I didnt have to run it so close to the hi/lo servo, and then I cut another one and removed the white wire and crimped the red and the black to the corresponding cables on the lighting kit.

  30. #30
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    Ah right. I might get an extension lead for the ESC then. For the lighting kit, I removed the JST cable and the RX cable from the dead Traxxas ESC and connected them together to make a new cable. Job done. I still don’t understand why there’s a red lead running from the lighting module to the receiver seeing as you can’t remotely turn the lights on and off, which I wish you could.

    I opened the casing on the Traxxas ESC and it was full of dirt. I realise the circuitry is waterproofed, but the on/off switch doesn’t seem to be, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the contacts on the switch had corroded.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonHC View Post
    I still don’t understand why there’s a red lead running from the lighting module to the receiver seeing as you can’t remotely turn the lights on and off, which I wish you could.
    I think it is safety issue. It prevents your Li-Po to be discharged to the ground by Light module which is under the power only if:
    - connected to battery
    and
    - red lead from Rx active

    So even if you keep main battery connected but switch Rx off, LED module will not drain it down...

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonHC View Post
    ...as you canít remotely turn the lights on and off, which I wish you could.
    You could use external 12 V (if you run 3S Li-Po) remotely switch relays and wire through these relays whatever you want:
    - main power to the LED module (you would switch ON/OFF everything LED module powers at once)
    - output lead from LED module to different lights (front+rear; rock lights) etc... and in this case you could switch ON/OFF different lights LED module powers
    - power supply to whatever else (for example sound module)

    Miloö.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonHC View Post
    Ah right. I might get an extension lead for the ESC then. For the lighting kit, I removed the JST cable and the RX cable from the dead Traxxas ESC and connected them together to make a new cable. Job done. I still don’t understand why there’s a red lead running from the lighting module to the receiver seeing as you can’t remotely turn the lights on and off, which I wish you could.

    I opened the casing on the Traxxas ESC and it was full of dirt. I realise the circuitry is waterproofed, but the on/off switch doesn’t seem to be, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the contacts on the switch had corroded.
    The red wire as stehnak said is for preventing the discharge of the lipo if you turn the esc off. The safest thing to do to prevent damage to the lipo and a possible fire is to unplug it each time, not just turn off the esc.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by stehnak View Post
    You could use external 12 V (if you run 3S Li-Po) remotely switch relays and wire through these relays whatever you want:
    - main power to the LED module (you would switch ON/OFF everything LED module powers at once)
    - output lead from LED module to different lights (front+rear; rock lights) etc... and in this case you could switch ON/OFF different lights LED module powers
    - power supply to whatever else (for example sound module)

    Miloš.
    A quick safety to anyone considering doing this. DO NOT PUT 12V INTO THE LIGHTING CONTROLLER. You need to wire it so the 12v power goes directly to the led's.

  35. #35
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    If you run 3S, you get from it around 12 V. These 12 Volts goes (directly or can go indirectly (positive pole) via remotely controlled relay like this https://www.banggood.com/433mhz-DC-1...IaAgVgEALw_wcB
    to the original Traxass LED module (e.g.: TRA8028). Output from this module is 3 V which goed directly to the LEDs (front lights, rock lights). You can route this output again via relay contact and thus control it (ON/OFF).
    If you connect 12V directly to the LED, then it will light for 0,01 second and never again.
    Max voltage for white LED is about 3,2 Volts...

    I run it like this for 1/2 a year, but of course having 3 A fuse before "playing" with 12V from 3S Li-Po. Nominal current (when I swith ON everything including sound module with volume level set to 3) is about 1 A (12 V side).

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